Q: Is there any way you can do a basic room-painting tutorial? Y’all seem to get such good results in just a few hours, but most internet tutorials would have me believe I need to put in a whole weekend for good results. I’ve noticed y’all don’t cover the floors and don’t prime–I’d love to know what other steps you skip and which ones you think are crucial, and why. Do you remove things like outlet covers and curtain brackets, or paint around them? When painting a ceiling, do you remove the light fixture? I need the youngsters to walk me through it! -Charlotte
A: We get this question a lot, so here’s a clear, practical walkthrough of how we paint a room. It’s our tried-and-true method that saves time while still delivering a professional-looking result. It may not be the only way, but it’s what works for us and what we recommend for many common room-painting projects.
Tip #1: Choose quality tools. For smooth, flat walls we use a good roller with the correct nap for the surface; textured walls require the suitable roller. For cutting in around windows, trim, ceilings, baseboards and tight corners we use a 2″ angled short-handled brush that gives us control and a crisp line. We rarely use painter’s tape when one of us cuts in by hand because a steady angled brush produces a clean edge and keeps the job moving quickly. Short-handled brushes are also handy for tight spots like behind a toilet.
Tip #2: You don’t have to remove trim or baseboards. We paint around them rather than removing them, which saves time and avoids potential damage. We usually do remove outlet and switch covers for a cleaner professional look, though it’s not strictly necessary. Curtain brackets are left in place to avoid misaligned holes when rehanging; we take the curtains down and carefully paint around the bracket with a small brush. If you’re nervous about hand-cutting, apply blue painter’s tape or Frog Tape to protect hardware. For light fixtures, remove pendants or shades when possible and paint carefully around the canopy or base to ensure a neat finish.
Tip #3: Skip primer in many cases. We don’t prime unless the existing wall color is very dark or saturated (deep chocolate, red, etc.), or the surface is likely to bleed (oiled or stained wood paneling, for example). For most walls we apply two thin, even coats of latex paint and get full coverage. Occasionally a third coat is needed, but that’s rare. We use a mix of brands depending on color and finish—Behr and Benjamin Moore are favorites, but we often have shades color-matched across brands. For special rooms we’ve used No-VOC options and specific trims often get a semi-gloss for durability.
Tip #4: Floor protection is flexible. We have years of experience and don’t always use drop cloths on sealed hardwood floors, but if you’re less experienced or your floors are carpeted, use a plastic tarp, canvas drop cloth, or large cardboard pieces to protect surfaces. If a drip happens on sealed wood and you wipe it up before it dries, it usually comes off easily. If it dries, removal is still possible but takes more effort. When in doubt, cover the floor.
Our usual room-painting workflow:
Step 1: Collect several paint swatches and tape them to the wall to observe the colors at different times of day and under different light. Once you pick the right color, buy the paint—usually one gallon of flat or satin for walls depending on the room.
Step 2: Make sure you have your tools: at least one roller (we like Purdy), a clean 2″ angled brush for cutting in, and a paint tray.
Step 3: Clear the room. Remove furniture, rugs, wall art, curtains, and anything that could get in the way.
Step 4: Protect a central area of the floor with a large garbage bag, a plastic tarp, or a piece of cardboard. Place your paint can, tray and a few rags there to catch any drips.
Step 5: Stir or shake the paint thoroughly and pour it into the tray. A quick tip: poke a few small holes in the paint-can lid rim with a nail so excess paint drains back into the can instead of pooling in the lid—this keeps the lid cleaner and reduces waste.
Step 6: One person cuts in around trim, corners and molding with the angled brush while the other rolls the main wall area in thin, even coats. Roll in a large W pattern for a smooth, consistent finish.
Step 7: After the first coat dries—usually 30–45 minutes unless it’s very humid—apply a second thin coat. Doing the second coat while you’re still organized and working keeps momentum and dramatically shortens total project time.
Step 8: When you’re satisfied with coverage, immediately wash brushes and rollers if you plan to reuse them. Cleaning right away protects your tools and makes future jobs easier. Latex paint cleans up with water.
Step 9: Dispose of recyclable or biodegradable disposable paint trays as needed and pour any left-over paint back into the can. If you used painter’s tape, remove it while the paint is still slightly wet for the cleanest edge—peel it off right after you finish cutting in or rolling the coat.
Step 10: Return furniture and accessories once the paint is dry to the touch. From the moment you bring paint and supplies into a cleared room, a two-person team can often finish in 2–3 hours; solo painters usually finish in about 4 hours. The key is preparation, good tools, and working in thin, even coats.
Painting a room is absolutely something you can do yourself. Start with the right supplies, keep coats thin, clean up promptly, and don’t be afraid to practice your cutting-in technique. With a little patience and the right process, you’ll get a professional-looking result without an all-weekend commitment.
Psst—if you have more painting questions, check the painting section of our Projects page for extra tips and specific tutorials.