We’re ready to paint the cabinets — finally — but the work leading up to that moment is more involved than it looks. What started as a plan to retrofit a few doors and paint quickly has turned into a list of prep tasks: filling gaps, sanding rough spots, adding trim, choosing hinges and hardware, selecting primer, and picking the final paint color. Each step matters if you want painted cabinets that look professional and last for years.
First on the list was trim work around the window. I wanted to rebuild the window sill and casing so we could caulk, prime, and paint everything while the cabinet doors were out. The old sill was a piece of granite that matched the previous counters, but we preferred a wood sill. I picked up a pine board, notched it to fit, slid it into place, and nailed it down.
Next came the casing and a small accent piece under the sill to match a previous detail we liked on another wall. Once the trim was cut, nailed, and fitted, the window was ready for caulk to seal corner gaps, primer on the raw wood, and a durable semi-gloss paint that is easy to wipe clean.
The toe-kick trim around the base cabinets also needed attention after we rearranged the layout. Some pieces were reusable and could be trimmed down and reinstalled, but the peninsula required new material. I couldn’t find off-the-shelf toe-kick trim locally, so I used pre-primed baseboard instead. Since everything will be painted the same cabinet color, the substitution will be unnoticeable once finished.
At the peninsula end we haven’t finalized the treatment for the back — options include reclaimed wood or raised panels — so the toe-kick currently stops short. That raw edge will be covered when we choose the final look for the side and back. We also held off on installing shoe molding until after the new cork floors are in; the plan is to prime and paint it beforehand to avoid tracking paint onto the new flooring.
Another small trim challenge was a corner cabinet whose bottom edge sat slightly higher than adjacent cabinets. It was exactly 1/2″ too high on each side, so I glued and clamped 1/2″ pine strips into place. After puttying, sanding, priming, and painting, that adjustment should be invisible.
We briefly considered crown molding for the uppers, but we both like the modern, clean look of the squared-off cabinet tops. For now we’ll leave them plain; if we decide the room needs more detail later, crown can be added after painting without risking the cabinet finish.
Hinges were another decision point. Hidden hinges would require routing the doors, and our doors have a thin, recessed edge that wouldn’t allow for that. Exposed hinges can work beautifully, so we explored painting the existing hinges to match new hardware to save money. We tried two satin nickel spray finishes, but the sprayed hinges looked stippled and wore through quickly in testing, so we opted to invest in new hinges that match our chosen hardware. Spending a modest amount on durable, matching hinges is worth it in a long-term kitchen renovation.
We’ve also finalized the cabinet color. After comparing many swatches against the counters, backsplash, and dark cork floors, we chose a soft warm white called Cloud Cover. It’s not a stark bright white but a very light warm gray (greige) that reads as a soft white from a distance while maintaining subtle depth up close. Because the house already has gray tones on adjacent walls and a soft gray penny-tile backsplash, a warm, light cabinet color helps the backsplash stand out and keeps the kitchen feeling classic rather than overly gray.
Our cabinet painting process will follow a careful sequence to ensure a durable, professional result:
- Remove doors, drawer fronts, and hardware
- Empty cabinets
- Fill gaps, seams, and old knob holes with wood putty
- Sand filled areas and any dings or rough spots smooth
- Sand all cabinet doors (front and back) and frames to scuff the finish for better adhesion
- Thoroughly clean the sanding dust from all surfaces
- Use a liquid deglosser on doors and frames for extra adhesion
- Finalize hardware and hinge plan
- Prime (consult a paint pro to choose the right primer)
- Paint (aiming for two coats on each side of doors and on frames)
- Allow 3–5 days for paint to cure fully before reinstalling hardware
- Drill for and install new hinges and hardware
- Reinstall doors and drawers
- Restock cabinets
- Document the transformation with after photos
We’ve been clearing out and organizing the sunroom to use it as our painting and finishing space. After sorting through demo scraps, donating usable material, and setting up plywood work surfaces over the furniture, the sunroom is ready for sanding, puttying, priming, and painting. Using low- or no-VOC products and keeping the area contained helps keep fumes and dust out of the main living areas.
With doors, drawer fronts, and hardware removed, and most of the prep items underway, we’re progressing steadily. We expect to prime and paint between Christmas and New Year’s and plan to share a full set of after photos in early January. It’s a bit of work up front, but careful preparation will pay off with painted cabinets that look clean, even, and durable for many years.
What are your holiday plans? Any DIY projects on your list this season? We’ve also been sharing toddler gift ideas and favorite activities for parents looking for last-minute inspiration for little ones during the holidays.