What kind of party was it? A decking party. If you’ve never spent an afternoon installing deck boards with nothing but sawdust and a power drill for company, you’re missing out. Admittedly, I had no guests—just me, the boards, and a very supportive spouse—so maybe “party” isn’t the exact word. Either way, here’s an update on laying our deck boards and how the zippered seam pattern came together.
We decided to replicate the “zippered” seam pattern we admired at our local art museum. The screws are exposed and aligned neatly along the seams to create that subtle, graphic look.
After our last post we received two common questions. Here are the answers:
- Why exposed screws instead of hidden fasteners?
We both grew up with traditional decks that used visible screws, and those decks lasted for decades. Exposed screws gave us a classic, clean lined look and the practical benefit of being easy to access for tightening or replacement over time. - Is it okay to lay boards so close together?
We used pressure-treated wood, and local design guidance said the boards could be placed fairly close because pressure-treated lumber typically shrinks as it seasons. That means small gaps will form later for drainage and airflow, so close spacing now is acceptable.
Before installing the zippered seams we planned a “picture frame” border: a perimeter of boards that run parallel to the deck edges and meet at mitered corners, with the interior pattern filling the middle. Because most of our decking runs lengthwise parallel to the house, that required a few extra boards at the ends to run parallel to the sliding door. It’s a finishing detail that makes the deck look intentional, but it also required careful planning so the boards could be properly fastened to the joists beneath.
To make sure every board ended on a joist, I added an additional joist where the frame board crossed the first joist. Code and good practice call for decking boards to be fastened at proper supports, so I also tucked a short 2×8 block between joists to give the frame board another solid fastening point.
To achieve the staggered zippered seam we wanted, I had to add two extra joists because our original joist spacing (16″ on center) didn’t align with the 5″ stagger we planned at the seams. Adding those joists allowed us to place seams where they would frame the future dining area and create the visual effect we were aiming for.
We used pressure-treated 2×6 decking rather than 5/4 material because our supplier recommended it. It gives the deck a more solid feel and should resist warping better over time.
At first I only set the end screws and planned to come back and secure the rest—two screws at every joist intersection—so each board spans at least four joists, which meets our county requirements.
The last board in one run fit almost perfectly; I only had to shave about 1/4″ off the frame board edge where it sits under the siding. The siding still needs some cosmetic work, so that minor cut won’t be noticeable.
One small planning hiccup: the end joists for a 10-foot board run were 1-1/8″ short of a full 10 feet, so I had to trim each 10′ board slightly so the ends landed at the center of a joist for fastening. Not ideal, but doable—cutting three boards at a time helped speed the work.
By the end of the first day I had a solid platform and a lot of sweat to show for it. I was proud of the progress and exhausted. I also learned a lesson about footing: I slipped off a joist while carrying a board and came through with a bruise that would make a good cautionary tale—take care when walking on joists, especially when tired or carrying long material.
On day two I tightened the screws and refined my technique. Instead of pre-drilling every hole I parked the screw with a hammer and used a level as a straightedge so the fasteners lined up. Then I drove them home with a power drill. The supplied screws had a standard head that tended to slip, so I kept a steady hand and worked through them.
Heat and humidity slowed progress, so I worked in shaded areas when possible. I also paid attention to the natural cupping of each board and oriented them to minimize visible gaps when they settle.
Warped boards are inevitable with 10-foot lumber. To close gaps I partially set screws to hold a board loosely, used my body to force the board into alignment, then drove the screws fully once it sat where I wanted it. Sometimes this required brute force; other times it slid right into place.
My daughter checked in on the progress, toddled around saying “pretty deck,” and generally inspected my work—very helpful supervision. She even managed to steal a sip of my water.
We’re thrilled with how the zippered seams look. Once the wood seasons and we apply stain, the seams should become even more defined. I have about one more day of laying boards and finishing screws before moving on to the final phases: railing and stairs. Weather permitting, the finish line is in sight—though hurricane season and summer weather always keep schedules flexible.
What projects are you working on? Ever manage to sweat through a leather belt or have a toddler “inspect” your build?
If you want to catch up on the whole deck project, we’ve shared our initial vision, cleared the planting area, removed the old balcony, selected materials, documented our first day of building, dug post holes, navigated inspections and adjustments, set posts, installed joists, prepared deck boards, and created a mood board with our design plan.