Yesterday we revealed the finished board-and-batten makeover we completed for the Pinterest Challenge, and today we’re sharing the complete step-by-step tutorial. It’s a long read—about 2,000 words—but don’t be intimidated: this project is one of the most cost-effective, foolproof upgrades we’ve done in a long time. With basic tools, inexpensive materials, and a few short sessions spread over several days, you can add real architectural interest to a plain hallway.
We’d planned to add molding to this hallway for a while, and now we’re kicking ourselves for not doing it sooner. Materials cost only about $57 (we had most supplies on hand; we did buy a nail gun later), and the work was done in a few hour-long sessions over the course of roughly a week, allowing for paint drying times. If you work on it a few evenings or a weekend, you can finish this in a short amount of time.
Planning Our Board & Batten
We studied several tutorials and adapted bits that suited our home and style. There are many valid approaches to board and batten—your choice depends on wall texture, desired depth, and personal taste. Here’s what we decided up front:
- No separate flat “board” panels: Our drywall was smooth, so we used the existing wall as the backdrop and applied vertical battens directly. Once primed and painted, the finish looks seamless—similar to installed boards. If your walls are textured you may prefer adding panels first.
- Kept the existing baseboards: We selected battens thin enough to sit flush with our baseboards. That saved time and money. If you prefer a more substantial look you can replace baseboards, but we found this approach faster and less disruptive.
We also produced two short how-to videos for the building and finishing phases. If you can’t watch them immediately, the written steps and photos below walk through the entire process and include tips for leveling, spacing, and preventing battens from bowing away from the wall.
Measuring & Shopping For Materials
Start by measuring the space and sketching a plan. A simple graph-paper sketch helped us estimate material lengths for the top rail and how many battens we’d need. Then make a list before you shop so you don’t overbuy.
We already owned many supplies, so we only purchased a few items. When buying long lumber, consider having the store cut it down for easier transport. Also let any wood acclimate in your home for several days before installation to reduce expansion or contraction after it’s attached.
Tools & Supplies Needed
Here’s the full list of tools and materials we used:
- Brad nail gun (pneumatic or cordless)
- Pre-primed lattice strips (or 1x2s if you prefer)
- 1×3 pine boards for a top rail
- 1×2 pine (optional ledge)
- Measuring tape
- Laser level (optional) and a regular level
- Stud finder
- Miter saw or a saw suitable for cutting trim
- Spackle or joint compound for filling nail holes
- Paintable caulk and a caulk gun
- Sandpaper or palm sander
- Primer and paint (durable trim paint recommended)
- Paint brushes, rollers, and other painting tools
*Acclimate wood by storing it indoors for about a week before installation.
Installing The Top Rail
We used 1×3 pine for the top rail and cut pieces to fit each wall run. If a saw isn’t available, many home centers will make cuts for you. Next, decide the height of your board-and-batten. We experimented with a higher placement but found it visually lowered our eight-foot ceilings, so we settled on 40 inches from the floor, which sits in the traditional range.
Mark a level line at your chosen height using a laser or regular level, and locate studs with a stud finder so you can secure the rail into solid framing. We fastened the rails with brad nails into studs for a secure hold without using heavy adhesives, which keeps future removal less destructive. The process of measuring, cutting, and nailing the top rails was quick—about an hour once we were set up.
Adding The Vertical Battens
We used thin lattice strips because they’re inexpensive and sit flush with existing baseboards. Thicker 1×2 battens can work well in wider spaces but would have projected past our baseboards and around door trim—something we wanted to avoid. We spaced our battens 16 inches apart to align with stud spacing so nails could penetrate studs for extra holding power.
To speed up placement we made a simple spacer from a scrap board. Tape held each batten temporarily while we used a level to ensure plumb, then we secured the pieces with a nail gun. The lattice is lightweight, so even nails into drywall hold reasonably well—getting at least some nails into studs is ideal but aesthetic balance is also important.
We planned and installed all battens in about an hour. We considered adding a small ledge along the top, but decided it narrowed the hallway and created potential bump hazards, so we skipped it and called the construction phase complete.
Prepare For Painting
The next step was filling nail holes and caulking gaps. We used spackle (joint compound works too) to fill nail holes because it’s easy to work with and sands nicely. Then we applied paintable white caulk to gaps where the trim met imperfect plaster or drywall—primarily along the top rail and a few battens. Caulking and sanding smoothed the transitions and made the final paint job look professional.
Prime & Paint
We applied a coat of stain-blocking primer to all the wood pieces to prevent bleed-through, even to pre-primed lattice. After allowing primer to dry, we painted the trim with a durable, furniture-quality satin paint to help resist scuffs and cleaning. Once the trim paint cured for a couple of days we hand-cut in around the top rail and rolled the wall color above. Taking your time around edges prevents peeling and yields a clean result.
We used a light gray wall color that coordinated with nearby spaces, kept the hallway feeling open, and reused leftover paint to reduce waste. After two coats on the wall and trim, the hallway looked transformed and more intentional.
Total Project Cost
We kept costs low because we had paint, caulk, and spackle on hand. Purchased items included lattice and 1×3 pine for rails. If you already own a nail gun the project can be very inexpensive—ours would have totaled about $57 had we bought the nailer earlier.
- Four 12-foot lengths of lattice (inexpensive per foot)
- Two 8-foot and two 6-foot 1×3 pine boards for the top rail
Timewise, our schedule spanned five to six days because we spaced work around drying times and family. With focused, uninterrupted time you could complete the project in two to three days: day one for construction and basic filling, day two for sanding and priming, and day three for final paint. Renting a nail gun is an option if you don’t want to buy one.
We love the result and wish we had done it sooner. The simple addition of board-and-batten brings visual interest and finishes the space, making us excited to hang art and plan future projects like crown molding in other rooms.
Update: We later repeated this concept in another house with a slightly fancier profile for a more formal look.
