After excitedly announcing that “the hardwood floors are done!” just in time to move in, we received a lot of requests for a follow-up with details about the tricky parts: transitions, trimming boards shorter or thinner, the top of the stairs, and how long it all took. Here’s a clear, practical recap of our hardwood floor installation process and the little steps that ate up time along the way. The entire job took about six days from the first board to the final strip of quarter round. Some days Sherry helped, other days I worked solo while she stayed back at the old house with Clara to keep her out of the sawdust.
Overview of the Timeline and Workflow
Day 1 was slow while we found our rhythm. Even when laying boards becomes routine, flooring installs include many side tasks that add time. Having done this once before, we still underestimated how much work the non-laying tasks would require. Below are the most time-consuming steps we encountered, with tips we found useful.
Cleaning the Subfloor
Before installing, the subfloor needs to be free of dust and debris. We swept and vacuumed each room thoroughly on Day 1, and then re-cleaned as we moved between rooms because the process creates a lot of sawdust. Keeping the surface clean prevents installation issues later and ensures better adhesion and fit.
Removing and Preparing Baseboards
We removed the baseboards to allow the floor to slide under trim and create a seamless look. Using a utility knife to slice the paint seam before prying with a crowbar helped minimize paint damage. Removing baseboards across four bedrooms and a long hallway adds up in time, but it’s worth it for a clean finish.
Removing Old Nails
We planned to reinstall the existing baseboards, so we removed old nails rather than driving them through the face and damaging the paint. A Dremel with a metal-cutting bit made it easy to saw nails off flush with the board without marring the visible surface.
Cutting Door Jambs
To let boards slide under door jambs for an uninterrupted flow between rooms, we trimmed 12 jambs using the Dremel. To set the cut height, we rested the blade on a scrap piece of flooring and underlayment as a guide, and protected the scrap with paper. This made consistent cuts fast and precise.
Moving Heavy Boxes
Boxes of flooring sat in the dining room, so we carried a few up every hour or two to keep each workspace stocked. To avoid visible color variation across boards, we pulled planks from three different boxes as we worked. Carrying 60 lb boxes up stairs wasn’t a break, but it kept the workflow steady and avoided stops while laying boards.
Cutting Boards to Length
At the end of rows we used a miter saw to trim the last pieces. To save time, we cut end boards for two to three rows at once whenever possible. Since these ends are covered by baseboard and quarter round, the goal was to leave the manufacturer-recommended expansion gap behind the trim so boards can move slightly with temperature changes without showing gaps.
Ripping Boards Lengthwise
When the last row needed to be narrower, we ripped boards on the table saw to get the exact width. These thin edge pieces are typically hidden under baseboard, so the primary concern was maintaining the recommended expansion gap while achieving a clean edge.
Managing Dust, Scraps, and Storage
Cutting produces sawdust and scrap pieces, so we designated a spare room as our cutting and scrap staging area. That avoided hauling debris up and down constantly. Before finishing that room on Day 6, we spent a chunk of Day 5 cleaning it thoroughly so it was dust-free and ready for flooring.
Reinstalling Trim and Adding Quarter Round
Once most rooms were complete, we reattached the baseboards using a nail gun, which moved quickly. Cutting and installing new quarter round took longer than expected and occupied a full workday, but that was the point everything started to look finished. If your baseboards are already painted, caulking seams and minor touch-up paint are quick tasks compared to the trim installation itself.
Angle Cuts and Geometry
We have an angled wall that required careful angle cuts for both flooring and quarter round. A calculator, scrap paper, and a pen are handy for working out miters and complementary angles. If you’re uncomfortable with geometry, take extra time measuring and doing mock cuts on scrap pieces first.
Touch-Ups After Reinstallation
Removing and reinstalling baseboards can cause minor nicks. We countered that with re-caulking along seams and spot-touch painting. If baseboards are pre-painted, these finishing steps go quickly and make the whole job look polished.
Transitions and the Top of the Stairs
Transitions are where the new hardwood meets another flooring surface. We added a transition at the top of the stairs by removing the existing bullnose, then installing a matching bullnose piece for the new floor using adhesive and a couple of finishing nails for stability. The new and old oak don’t match perfectly, but in person the difference is subtle—photos can exaggerate visual differences.
Final Thoughts
After the bullnose at the top of the stairs was in place, the floor installation was officially complete. We immediately shifted into moving mode and packed up. Installing hardwood is a rewarding but detail-oriented project. Expect cutting, clean-up, trim work, and a few math problems along the way—those little steps add time but produce a strong, professional-looking result.
Did anything about installing floors surprise you, or are you tackling a project where the “little” tasks are taking more time than planned? See the original post about how we laid our hardwoods for more details on underlayment and step-by-step board installation for additional background.