Tired of dragging hoses, setting timers, and watching your lawn struggle through hot summers? You can install an automated in-ground irrigation system yourself. With planning, patience, and some elbow grease, we saved about $1,700 compared to a professional quote. Below is a clear, step-by-step account of how we did it, what we learned, and what to watch out for.
Before the step-by-step guide, here are a few key considerations to help you decide whether a DIY sprinkler system is right for you.
Should You DIY Your Sprinkler System?
I’m proud that we completed this project ourselves, but full disclosure: a large, irregularly shaped yard like ours stretched the DIY approach. What a professional crew could complete in a day or two took me over three weeks of hard work. The project involved lots of repetitive digging, cutting, gluing, and lifting, and it took a physical toll.
Smaller yards or gardens—especially those suited to a drip irrigation system—are better DIY candidates. Drip systems are far easier to install and maintain. For larger systems, weigh the financial savings against the physical labor and time commitment. For us, saving about $1,700 plus the ability to troubleshoot the system ourselves made it worthwhile.
Why Install a Sprinkler System?
A sprinkler or irrigation system delivers consistent, deep watering that keeps lawns, gardens, and planters healthy without the hassle of hoses and manual watering. Modern controllers let you customize schedules by zone, adapt to local weather, and reduce wasted water. We installed a Wi‑Fi smart controller so our system skips runs when rain is expected and can be managed remotely.
We had a landscape plan prepared before starting major planting, and our landscape architect recommended planning watering before investing in plants. If you’re redesigning your yard, coordinate irrigation with the landscape plan so your new beds and lawn receive proper, reliable water.
We received professional installation quotes around $3,500. A neighbor with prior experience offered to help, so we proceeded with a DIY install last September.
Steps to Installing a Sprinkler System
Here’s an overview of the tasks involved. Each step is explained in more detail below.
- Get a companion water meter
- Plan your layout
- Call 811 to mark utilities
- Buy materials and tools
- Dig trenches
- Lay and glue pipes
- Install zone valves
- Install a backflow preventer
- Add sprinkler and mister heads
- Wire valves to the controller
- Test, program, and finish
Step 1: Get a Companion Meter
A companion (or secondary) water meter is often available for irrigation systems. It measures water use without charging sewer/disposal fees, which can reduce long-term utility charges. In our county the water department installed it after we applied and paid an installation fee. Check local procedures and start this early if required where you live.
Step 2: Plan Your Layout
A thoughtful layout saves time and money. Identify two fixed points first: where the water enters (companion meter) and where you’ll power the controller. From the main line you’ll branch zone lines. Zones limit how many heads run at once (to preserve pressure) and let you tailor watering for shaded versus sunny areas.
Lay out the main pipe (we used 1″ PVC) and plan each zone line (we reduced to 3/4″ where appropriate). Mark sprinkler head positions with flags spaced for proper coverage—roughly 8–10 large steps apart for our heads—so you can later fine-tune arc and direction to avoid overspray onto driveways or walkways.
Step 3: Call 811
Before digging, call 811 to have utility lines located and marked. Even shallow trenches can be dangerous without this check.
Step 4: Buying Sprinkler System Materials
With your layout set, buy the materials. Quantities depend on your plan, but the components below are typical for an in-ground lawn system:
- Sprinkler heads for lawn areas
- Mister heads for flower and mulch beds
- 1/2″ swing pipe (poly pipe) for each head
- Swing pipe elbows (two per head)
- 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 1/2″ threaded tees to tap the zone line
- 3/4″ valves (one per zone)
- Valve boxes for each valve
- 3/4″ and 1″ PVC pipe for zone and main lines
- Assorted PVC connectors, PVC primer and cement, and a cutting tool
- Controller sized for your number of zones
- Underground sprinkler wire with enough conductors for all zones
- Backflow preventer if required by your locality
- Trenching and digging tools (trencher rental or trench shovel)
Sprinkler heads & connections
Most of each pop-up sprinkler or mister sits below the surface and extends when water flows. Each head ties into the PVC zone line via a short flexible swing pipe, using threaded elbows and a tee on the main pipe. The swing pipe makes it easy to position heads precisely and navigate curves.
Valves & Controller
Each zone is controlled by an electrically operated valve installed where the zone branches off the main. Valves sit in valve boxes for protection and access. The controller, mounted near your power source, sends signals down colored wires to activate each valve on schedule. Choose a controller with enough zones; we used an 8-zone smart Wi‑Fi controller for our six-zone layout so we had room to expand.
Wire, Pipes, and Other Supplies
Use multiconductor underground sprinkler wire with distinct colored strands so each zone has a dedicated conductor. A backflow preventer, often required by local codes, prevents irrigation water from flowing back into the main supply and is usually installed above ground near the main connection. Plan pipe sizes: we ran 1″ for the main and the first few drops of each zone, then reduced to 3/4″ for the remainder.
Step 5: Dig Trenches
Trenching can be the most strenuous part. For larger jobs we rented a trencher; for delicate areas near sidewalks or utilities, hand digging is safer. We rented a trencher for $88/day, but it’s heavy and hard to maneuver—consider asking your rental center about a smaller cable installer tool if you need narrower trenches.
Hand-digging under concrete may require carefully driving pipe through with a mallet. Plan for a long, tiring day and enlist help for moving equipment.
Step 6: Lay Your Irrigation Pipes
Lay out PVC along the trenches and glue fittings with PVC primer and cement. Primer dries quickly; apply cement and assemble fittings with a slight twist, holding for about 30 seconds. Use a ratcheting PVC cutter for clean cuts. The gluing process is simple but repetitive and physically demanding—expect to feel it in your shoulders and back.
Step 7: Install Your Valves
Install a valve at the start of each zone using threaded couplings where needed. Mount each valve in a valve box and orient it in the direction of flow. Secure threaded connections with plumber’s tape and tighten. Valve wiring can wait until after plumbing is complete.
Step 8: Install a Backflow Preventer
Backflow preventers often have local code requirements—ours did, and we encountered multiple inspections and corrections. Common issues include missing a shut-off before the device, failing to use quick-disconnect couplings for winter removal, and installing the blowout line in the wrong location. If your jurisdiction requires one, research current local rules and plan the plumbing layout accordingly. Expect to call a plumber if complex underground copper connections or unexpected issues arise.
Step 9: Add Sprinkler Heads
Install tees into the zone lines where each head will go, attach swing pipe elbows and cut swing pipe to the desired lengths. Preassemble heads and nozzles in batches to speed the process. Set heads low so they don’t catch on mowers, then fine-tune spray arcs and patterns after pressurizing the system. For our install we prepared 27 heads and adjusted each nozzle and arc individually.
Step 10: Wire Everything Together
Run multiconductor underground wire from the controller through the main trench to each valve. Designate one common wire (we used black) and assign a different color to each zone. At each valve, connect the common to the valve common and the zone conductor to the valve’s other lead using waterproof wire connectors. Leave some slack at each connection and continue remaining conductors onward so you have options for future expansion.
Step 11: Test, Program & Finish
Test each zone for leaks, correct water flow, and proper spray coverage. Adjust arcs and nozzles as needed. Program your controller with sensible run times and schedules for each zone, and enable weather-based adjustments if available. Refill trenches and repair sod or seed areas that were disturbed. Heavy or muddy soils can make this process messy—allow time for cleanup and lawn recovery.
Overall, installing an in-ground sprinkler system is entirely doable for a motivated DIYer, but it requires planning, physical labor, and attention to local codes. For large properties, hiring a professional may save time and reduce stress; for smaller yards or garden beds a DIY approach can deliver great savings and satisfaction.
Our DIY install cost roughly $1,800 including tool and truck rental—about half the professional estimate. We saved money, gained hands-on knowledge of our system, and can now maintain or expand it without extra professional fees. That said, expect sore muscles and a few curveballs along the way.
More Outdoor & Landscaping Projects
If you enjoyed this project, consider other yard improvements like drip irrigation, trellises, landscape lighting, pressure washing, deck resurfacing, or frost protection for plants. These projects vary in complexity but can improve your yard’s beauty and function.
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