How We Installed Porcelain Tile in Our Laundry Room

A new tiled floor in a freshly finished room is one of those small home-improvement joys that feels disproportionately satisfying. We’re thrilled with how this laundry room floor turned out, and since a saw played a starring role, here’s a clear, practical recap of our laundry room tile installation—from subfloor prep to grouting and sealing.

Preparing the Subfloor

Before laying any tile, we installed cement board over the wood subfloor. Cement board is the preferred substrate for tile because it resists movement and provides a stable base. The boards we used came in 3 ft × 5 ft sheets. I cut the pieces by scoring them with a utility knife and snapping them along the score line for clean, easy cuts.

After a dry fit to confirm layout, I adhered each piece with a layer of thinset between the cement board and the wood subfloor. The thinset reduces movement and prevents flexing or grinding between sheets. I mixed the thinset with water following the manufacturer’s directions and used a drill with a mixing paddle to achieve a consistent paste.

I applied the thinset with a 1/4″ notched trowel—first spreading with the flat side, then combing grooves with the notched edge, the same technique used for setting tile.

Once the boards were set in place I left a small gap (about 1/8″) at the walls, then screwed the cement board down along the edges every 6–10″ and across the field about every 12–16″ using cement board screws for long-term stability.

Seams and Tape

Many tutorials recommend taping and mudding seams immediately. We applied mesh tape to the seams but postponed full thinset filling until tile installation. That approach helped us avoid accidental high ridges or bumps that can occur if seams are overfilled before tile placement.

Dry Fitting and Layout

Next came dry fitting the tiles to determine the best placement for our brick—or staggered—pattern. We initially centered the pattern but discovered it left thin slivers of tile along both walls. After experimenting we shifted the layout slightly so we could use a full tile on the left and a larger cut on the right, avoiding tiny slivers and balancing the visible pattern where the washer and dryer will sit.

Cutting Tiles: The Wet Saw Upgrade

Cutting tiles became much easier after we upgraded from a small tabletop wet saw to a full-size wet saw. The larger tool with a stand, water tray, laser guide, and rolling tray made precise, straight cuts faster and more comfortable. The rolling tray in particular sped up the process and helped keep cuts accurate.

Sorting and Setting Tile

We sorted tiles by appearance to make sure the most attractive pieces sat in highly visible areas. Tiles with strong veining went in the center of the room, acceptable tiles went near walls or under appliances, and the less-featured pieces were reserved for hidden locations.

My working method was to mix thinset to a consistency slightly more fluid than I usually use (aiming for something like pancake batter), spread it with a notched trowel, set two rows at a time, use spacers for consistent joints (we used 1/16″ spacers), and check level frequently with a long level.

Finishing the Tile Field

Cuts were straightforward: measure from the existing full tile, mark, and cut. With the wet saw the entire field took less than two hours once we started setting tile. After installation we allowed the thinset to cure for about 48 hours before removing spacers and preparing for grout.

Seamless Transition to Adjacent Flooring

We chose to attempt a transition-free doorway to match other rooms in the house where tile meets hardwood flush. That required extending the hardwood slightly into the doorway area so the finished tile and wood would be at the same height—luckily our subfloor planning paid off and the elevations matched exactly.

Grouting

After 48 hours of cure time, we mixed non-sanded grout (appropriate for joints under 1/8″) and applied it with a rubber float, pressing the grout into the joints and removing excess at a 45-degree angle. I kept the sponge only slightly damp when wiping the haze away to avoid altering the grout color. After initial passes, I let the grout dry for about 90 minutes and then buffed remaining haze with a dry microfiber cloth—this removed much more haze than additional wet wiping.

Haze Removal and Sealing

After letting grout dry three days, we used a grout haze remover to eliminate any residual film, then rinsed thoroughly. Once fully dry (about 12 hours), we applied a penetrating sealer on both the tile and grout to protect against stains—simply applied with a sponge, allowed to soak briefly, and wiped off excess.

The combination of haze removal and sealer noticeably brightened and deepened the tile’s appearance, so don’t skip these final steps if you want the finished floor to look its best.

Supplies Used

• Thinset, mixed in a bucket with a drill mixer
• Margin trowel for scooping thinset
• 1/4″ notched trowel for spreading thinset
• Tile spacers (1/16″) and a long level
• Wet saw for cutting tile
• Non-sanded grout, rubber float, sponge, and microfiber cloth
• Grout haze remover and penetrating sealer

Cost Breakdown

• Cement board & screws from Home Depot: $48
• Blast Anthracite 12 × 24″ tiles from The Tile Shop: $353
• Thinset from The Tile Shop: $29
• Grout (Dolorean Gray) from Home Depot: $13
• Buckets, sponges, trowels, spacers, float: $8 (we already owned most; add ~$25 if you don’t)
• Superior Haze Remover: $0 (leftover; typical cost ~$9)
• Superior Penetrating Sealer: $0 (leftover; typical cost ~$13)
• TOTAL: $451

This totals roughly $350 for tile and about $100 for materials and supplies specific to the project. The wet saw was an additional purchase but not included in the project total since it’s a tool for future use.

Wrapping Up

With the floor complete, we can start installing cabinets and bringing in the washer and dryer. We plan to hang upper cabinets before moving appliances in to avoid any accidental damage. Once the cabinets and appliances are in place, we’ll finally be back to washing clothes at home—something to celebrate after a big DIY effort.