You may have already seen our finished and furnished bonus room above the garage, but here’s a clear, practical walk-through of how we installed the oak hardwood flooring. This was our first time doing a traditional nail-in installation (we’d previously done a floating hardwood installation), so we learned a lot. It wasn’t overly difficult, but it had its tricky parts. Below is a straightforward account of what we did, why we chose certain materials, and tips we picked up along the way.
Choosing Our Floors
Originally we planned to carpet the bonus room for a cozy feel and because we didn’t have extra hardwood left over from installing floors elsewhere on the second floor. But we couldn’t stop picturing the wood running down the hallway and into the bonus room, so we hunted for matching oak hardwood. The exact product we’d used—Lono Oak—had been discontinued, but we were able to locate small quantities at several warehouses around the country. It required extra shipping and coordination, but the boards were on final closeout and extremely discounted, which made it worthwhile.
Preparation
When the boxes arrived we moved them into the bonus room and let the wood acclimate for about five days (three days is often recommended minimum). Acclimation helps the planks adjust to the home’s humidity so they don’t move excessively after installation. Next we rolled out a vapor barrier and underlayment over the plywood subfloor. Underlayment reduces squeaks and protects against moisture. We overlapped strips slightly and trimmed edges with a utility knife to fit the room.
Laying The First Rows
The first rows require the most planning. Nail-down hardwood needs an expansion gap around the perimeter to allow for seasonal movement. We used a 3/4″ gap (the thickness of our boards) and marked the outside edge of the first row with a chalk line across the room so the boards would lie straight and parallel to the wall even if the wall was uneven.
We loosely positioned the first row and secured it with small finish nails along the inside top edge to hold it while we prepared to nail it down. The very first few rows must be hand-nailed because the air-powered floor nailer is too large to reach that close to the wall. We drilled pilot holes about every 10–12″ and drove nails, then used a nail punch to set them flush. It’s tedious, but essential for a clean edge.
Using the Floor Nailer
After installing three full rows by hand we had enough clearance to use a rented air-powered floor nailer. Renting was economical for a one-off project; it saved us the cost of buying a tool we would rarely use. The floor nailer drives flooring cleats into the tongue of each board, pulling planks tightly together and fastening them to the subfloor. Cleats are loaded into the nailer in strips.
To operate the nailer, you slide it over the board’s edge, pull the trigger with one hand and strike the plunger with a mallet. It takes more than a tap, but doesn’t require a huge swing. The process was much faster than hand-nailing, though repetitive mallet strikes and bending over proved tiring—over 1,000 cleats went into this room. Working in pairs—one person laying boards while the other nails—kept the line moving efficiently. We deliberately pulled boards from different boxes and staggered board lengths so color variation and seams appeared random and natural.
Cutting Boards
Most rows end with a cut board. We kept a supply of boards with minor defects for end cuts, so flaws could be trimmed away and the usable portion used elsewhere. To measure a cut, we rotated the board 180 degrees, pressed it against the end wall, and marked the cut about 1/2″ from the wall edge. The board’s tongue adds roughly 1/4″ so combined with the 1/2″ this maintained our 3/4″ expansion gap. We took batches of marked boards downstairs to the miter saw and cut several at a time to minimize trips and keep the workflow steady.
The Last Rows
The final rows, like the first, had to be hand-nailed because the nailer couldn’t reach close to the wall. We used pilot holes, a hammer, and a nail punch to set the last boards. It’s the least enjoyable stage after getting used to the speed of the nailer, but it’s necessary for a clean finish. After all the boards were installed we cleaned the floor, then installed baseboards, quarter round, and any window moldings.
Finally we added built-ins, arranged furniture, and enjoyed the new bonus room every day—especially the oversized sofa where I celebrated a very satisfying Father’s Day nap. If you’re tackling a hardwood floor project, expect heavy box hauling, some tedious hand-nailing, and a lot of mallet work. Planning, proper acclimation, and using the right tools will make the job much smoother.
More Flooring Projects
If you’d like more flooring guidance, check out these related projects and how-tos we’ve documented:
- Refinishing Hardwood Floors 101
- How To Select Hardwood Flooring
- How To Install Hardwood Floors Without Nails
- How To Install Click-And-Lock Cork Flooring
- How To Paint A Floor
- How To Stain A Concrete Floor
- How To Remove Carpet
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