Fixing Gaps Between Cabinets and Your Stove: Simple Solutions

Some parts of this kitchen remodel were less thrilling than opening up the wall, but they still had to be done—especially a few tasks we wanted completed before the countertop fabricator came to template the new surfaces.

First on the list was filling the gaps beside the stove.

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The base cabinet we removed was 36″ wide, while the stove is about 30″, leaving nearly 3″ of empty space on each side. Since most pull-out inserts start at 3″ or wider, there wasn’t a practical functional option for such narrow spaces. Instead we decided to install simple filler strips of wood. We considered shifting the stove to one side to install a wider pull-out, but that would have left the hood off-center and required widening the ceiling hole—more hassle and expense than it was worth. Thin slide-out drawers also wouldn’t have matched the existing cabinet doors, so basic filler pieces felt like the best choice. We also wanted the penny-tile backsplash and items on the floating shelves to be the visual focus, so we kept the fillers plain and unobtrusive.

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I picked up pine project boards from Lowe’s, cut them to size, drilled pilot holes with a Kreg jig, and screwed them into place.

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We installed fillers at the front to visually close the gaps and added backing pieces at the rear so the countertop template would have solid support.

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Each side ended up with three filler pieces. Two might have sufficed, but the boards were inexpensive—about $11 total for the project—far less than custom pull-outs.

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Both sides were ready for the stove to slide back in.

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Not bad, right? Once the countertops are installed and the cabinets are primed and painted, the fillers will blend in—many other base cabinets already have similar 2.5″ fillers.

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On closer inspection we noticed a small remaining gap—only about a quarter-inch—so we added a final thin sliver of wood to tighten the fit.

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I picked up 3/8″ project boards that fit the gap perfectly. They added about $4 to the budget, bringing the project to roughly $15 total. I nailed the slivers in place, keeping them flush with the front filler pieces.

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Here’s how both sides looked after that final tweak. I only extended the slivers to the front panels because they were purely cosmetic.

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We slid the stove back in and the fit was snug—close enough for a clean look yet loose enough to remove the appliance when needed. Removing the old tile behind the stove later will allow it to sit slightly further back for an even more flush appearance, and the toe kick across all cabinets will complete the seamless look at the base.

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With that task finished, we moved on to the peninsula.

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To ensure the countertop templater didn’t assume we wanted an angled corner, we attached a flat plywood panel to the back of the peninsula. This was also a job we would need to complete eventually, so we tackled it while waiting for the counters. I had already attached a small corner block to anchor the panel against the half wall; it was two scrap boards screwed together at 90 degrees and fixed to the wall so the panel’s edge would sit flush with the cabinet backs.

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The utility plywood I used had been cut to size at Lowe’s when I purchased material for another project. It cost about $9. Because we later changed from a 21″ end cabinet to an 18″ end cabinet, I trimmed off 3″ with a jigsaw so the panel fit perfectly.

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Here it is all cut and nailed into place. It’s plain for now, but we’ll add trim—baseboard, corner molding, and possibly a board-and-batten detail—and paint it to match the cabinets. For the countertop template it provides the squared-off edge we need. The peninsula will have a 12″ Corian overhang on two sides to accommodate four stools.

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You can start to see how it’s coming together. The chairs in the photos are temporary; we hope to find lighter, airier stools—possibly acrylic—for the space.

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We also did some paint touch-ups while everything was accessible. Painting wasn’t required for templating, but it made the space feel less unfinished and was free since we already had the paint on hand. We focused on raw trim, exposed drywall, and paneling left over from earlier projects.

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We painted the inside edge of the half wall a soft grey to coordinate with the dining room. Using the grey rather than the brighter grellow from the kitchen paneling felt more natural since the side of the half wall is drywall and the subtle grey reads almost like white next to the door jamb.

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You might notice a drip on the temporary threshold. That’s a leftover piece of paneling from the wall-opening project that we cut down, flipped paint-side-down, and tacked in to bridge the gap created when the wall came out. It will eventually be covered with cork, and a small threshold will join the cork to the original hardwood—similar to what we did in our previous house where new flooring met original floors.

Below are several “after painting” photos of the kitchen and dining room—the closest thing we have to a polished after for now. Ignore the temporary floor lamps in the dining room; we’re planning a chandelier above the table. The new microwave and dishwasher boxes are sitting nearby until installation day.

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A few readers asked for a shot from the living room, so here’s that angle. We love being able to see the large picture window from the back of the house. Widening this doorway is tempting, but it’s likely structural and would be a messy, involved project—so it’s on the “maybe someday” list. For now, the slightly narrower opening gives the living room a bit of privacy, which can be a nice trade-off.

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That was a lot of photos for a post about small tasks: filling gaps around the stove, attaching a panel to the peninsula, and doing paint touch-ups. I counted 30 pictures—guess we’ve been a bit photo-happy lately. We still grin walking into the kitchen every time.

What small updates have you made around your home recently? Any last-minute projects you’re trying to finish before the weekend or the holidays?