You can convert a standard toilet into a dual-flush model quickly, without plumbing experience and in under an hour. This simple upgrade lets you choose a lower-volume flush for liquid waste and a more powerful flush for solids, cutting water use and potentially lowering your water bill. The conversion works like getting a new, eco-friendly toilet without buying one—just install a conversion kit and adjust a few settings. Follow this step-by-step guide to retrofit your toilet for better water efficiency.

What Is a Dual-Flush Toilet?
A dual-flush toilet offers two flush options: a lower-volume flush for liquid waste and a higher-volume flush for solids. Traditional single-flush toilets typically use 1.6 gallons per flush (GPF). Dual-flush systems allow you to use a significantly smaller amount—often 0.8 to 1.1 GPF—when a lighter flush is sufficient. Because an estimated large portion of toilet uses don’t require a full-power flush, switching to dual-flush can substantially reduce household water consumption. The EPA and water-conservation organizations note that dual-flush systems are an effective way to lower residential water use.

Dual-flush toilets are easy to spot: they usually have a two-part button on top or a split lever. Manufacturers often use one or two droplet icons to indicate the lower- and higher-volume flush options.
Converting a Toilet to Dual Flush
Most standard toilets can be retrofitted with a dual-flush conversion kit. We installed a HydroRight dual-flush converter kit that cost about $25 and completed the job in less than an hour with just a few simple tools. Below are the practical steps to convert your toilet, written to be clear for first-time DIYers.
Step 1: Remove the Old Flush Handle
Although some kits advertise tool-free installation, older flush handles are often tightened with a nut that requires a wrench. Remove the nut and lift the handle from the tank. This is a straightforward task; take care not to force or drop metal parts onto the porcelain.
Step 2: Remove the Toilet Flapper
Next, remove the flapper—the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank. This usually unhooks easily and typically requires no tools. Turning off the water supply is optional but recommended if you prefer not to work with tank water while installing parts.

Step 3: Attach the Dual-Flush Converter
Place the lower portion of the conversion tower into the flapper opening so it fits snugly over the tank seal. A tight fit is essential to prevent leaks or a constantly running toilet. Many kits include a rubber band or gasket to hold the base in place; stretch it over the fill tube or body of the tower, and use the provided zip-tie to secure it if needed.

If a zip-tie is accidentally cut, most kits include a spare. Make sure the converter is firmly pressed against the seal so it won’t tilt or allow water to bypass the valve.

Step 4: Install the Flush Tower
Set the remainder of the flush tower into the base. It typically locks in with a drop-and-twist motion. The tower includes adjustment features—often colored sliders or switches—that let you fine-tune how much water is used for the partial flush versus the full flush. Adjust these to start in the mid-range; you can refine them after testing.

Step 5: Attach the New Dual-Flush Button
Replace the exterior handle area with the new dual-flush button assembly. Most kits allow you to hand-tighten the mounting nut; avoid over-tightening to prevent cracking the porcelain. The two-button design gives an easy-to-use split control: one side for the lighter flush and the other for the full flush.


Clip the internal actuator or cable (the small white box at the end of the cord) onto the back of the button. No electricity or batteries are required—these mechanisms are purely mechanical.

If the buttons don’t operate the first time, check the position of the adjustable slider on the tower. The slider’s height relative to the water level determines whether the button has enough leverage to lift the built-in flapper. Small, incremental adjustments will usually solve any issues.
Step 6: Observe Your Water Levels
Test both flush modes and observe how much water each uses. The partial flush should move significantly less water than the full flush and often appears quieter and quicker. Fine-tune the blue and green adjustment controls to achieve consistent and reliable flushing for both options. Once dialed in, the system should operate reliably every time.

After installing this converter we liked it so much that we installed the same kit on two more toilets in our new home—one in the guest bathroom and one in the hall bathroom—because the water savings and convenience were noticeable.
Install a New Dual-Flush Toilet
If retrofitting isn’t appealing, you can purchase a new dual-flush toilet. Prices have come down and many models are competitively priced with standard toilets. Installing a toilet yourself is a manageable DIY project for most homeowners. Consider these example models and approximate prices:
- Project Source Dual-Flush Toilet — around $99
- Glacier Bay Dual-Flush Toilet — around $160
- American Standard Dual-Flush Toilet — around $260
- Kohler Dual-Flush Toilet — around $315
When shopping, look for models with a wider trapway to reduce clogs when using less water. An elongated bowl and comfort (chair) height are also recommended for better ergonomics and comfort.
Other Toilet How-Tos
Now that you know how to convert a toilet to dual-flush, you might be interested in other common toilet projects and maintenance tips to keep your bathroom functioning well.

- How to install a toilet
- Choosing a favorite toilet model and why it works well
- How to fix a rocking toilet
- How to unclog a bathtub drain without chemicals
- Converting a toilet to dual-flush
- Fixing a backed-up toilet line
Note: product names and prices are included for reference; availability and pricing may vary.