We love DIY wall molding, but our new favorite is the thick framed molding we added to our bathroom. It nearly didn’t happen, and yet it ended up being one of the less expensive line items in the remodel. We still have a few finishing touches—like a bathroom door—to finish before the full reveal, and we’ll share the complete budget in the big after post. In the meantime, here’s a clear, practical walkthrough of this decorative wall molding project so you can replicate it in your own bathroom or other rooms.
Good news: if you’re comfortable using a miter saw and a nail gun, this project is much easier than it looks. It’s more about careful measuring and patient caulking than advanced carpentry.
Picking a Molding Style
We were on the fence about adding molding because there’s already a detailed, tone-on-tone tile pattern in the shower. At the same time, a thoughtful wall treatment felt like the right move to elevate the whole room. We drew inspiration from a handful of pinned bathrooms and settled on a treatment that reads like recessed panels: thick, substantial boards that create visual depth without being overly busy.
We’ve done a variety of wood wall treatments in other homes and they always add instant architecture and dimension. Past projects include faux shiplap, board & batten, and more elaborate hallway trim—each one proved that well-executed molding can make a modest space feel custom and high-end. For this bathroom we wanted chunkier, classic profiles so the molding would feel substantial and durable.
Materials & Supplies
We chose the materials by testing combinations in the store until the proportions looked right in person. Our final materials list included:
- 8 ft primed 1×4 boards for the chair rail and vertical slats
- 8 ft primed 1×6 boards for the baseboard and crown
- Primed base cap molding to frame the inside edges of each box
Note: we initially considered 1×3 boards but preferred the chunkier 1×4 for the visual weight they provided.
Base cap was the secret weapon for a refined, finished edge where the boards meet the interior of each framed box. It can be tricky to find in stock sometimes, so buy more than you think you’ll need to avoid extra trips.
Other essential tools and supplies:
- Finish nail gun (or hammer and nails if you prefer manual methods)
- Miter saw (or a manual miter box and handsaw)
- Spackle or wood filler and a putty tool
- Caulk and caulk gun
- 48″ level
- Tape measure
- Stud finder
- Spackle knife or painter’s tool
- High-grit sanding block
- Painter’s tape, pencil/pen
Using the power tools speeds things up significantly. This project generates a lot of cutoffs, so expect a sizable scrap pile.
Installing the Wall Treatment
We worked on a tight schedule because the plumbers were due to arrive and could block access to the walls. That deadline helped us avoid overthinking and simply commit to decisions. With the floor recently tiled, we had to step carefully and mark which tiles were set versus still wet, but the installation itself is straightforward if you follow a logical sequence.
In these unpainted photos you can see the approach. The chair rail and vertical slats are 1×4 boards attached with 1.5″ finish nails. We tried to hit studs for horizontal boards when possible, but didn’t depend on studs for every vertical slat because we wanted freedom with placement. We avoided construction adhesives to minimize drywall damage if the trim ever needs to be removed; finish nails combined with caulk and paint provide plenty of hold for decorative trim.
We used 1×6 boards along the ceiling and floor to serve as crown and baseboard. Each box’s interior edge was trimmed with base cap pieces that were mitered at the corners for a clean, finished look.
A useful installation order that minimizes seams and re-cuts:
- Install baseboard and crown pieces first
- Place vertical slats at corners and around door/window frames to create large initial boxes
- Install the horizontal chair rail
- Add remaining vertical slats to form final boxes
- Trim each box with base cap molding
We didn’t follow this order perfectly every time, but it’s a good general workflow. We also avoided adding elaborate crown molding because it looked too busy with our 8 ft ceilings.
Figuring Out Height & Spacing
Choosing the chair rail height and the spacing of the vertical slats is more art than science. A common rule is to split the wall roughly one-third up from the floor. With 8 ft ceilings that would be 32″, but we set our chair rail slightly higher—about 38″—so it lined up with the vanity top and created a pleasing visual relationship between fixtures and trim.
Rather than making every box the same size around the room, evaluate each wall independently. Over the vanity we used one large box so mirrors and lights sit neatly within it. Over the toilet and on smaller walls we used narrower boxes. This intentional asymmetry creates balance and makes each feature feel framed and curated.
The spacing decisions were driven by the room’s objects—vanity, mirrors, toilet, tub faucets—so plan your slat placement around the main focal points instead of relying on strict repetition.
Caulking & Hole Filling
This part is tedious but crucial. We used several tubes of caulk—one for every joint where boards meet each other or the wall—and filled every nail hole with wood filler or spackle. Proper caulking softens shadows, hides gaps, and makes the whole treatment read as one seamless architectural element rather than many pieces of trim tacked on.
After caulking, sand any rough spots, prime if necessary, and finish with a couple coats of paint for a professional, built-in look.
Budget Breakdown
A wall molding project doesn’t require many different materials, but costs vary with room size and the profiles you choose. For our 8′ x 13′ bathroom (excluding the shower area) we spent about:
- 1×6×8′ primed boards (baseboard & crown): $118
- 1×4×8′ primed boards (chair rail & vertical slats): $139
- Primed base cap molding: $291
- Door jamb & casing: $88
- Caulk & putty (additional purchase): $12
- Total: $648
This was one of our pricier wall treatment DIYs, but the final result feels high-end and completely worth it. You can reduce cost by buying unprimed lumber and priming it yourself, or by choosing narrower boards, but factor in the time that extra step requires.
Once the bathroom is fully wrapped up we’ll share before-and-after photos and a full renovation budget. For now, if you’re planning a similar DIY: measure carefully, mock up your layout on each wall, buy extra molding and caulk, and don’t rush the caulking and filling—those details make the difference between a basic install and a professional-looking finish.
P.S. If you want context on how this room came together, we’ve documented earlier steps like our floor planning and tile selections, general bathroom progress, and the closet renovation in prior posts and project updates.