How to Install Cement Board and Repair a Subfloor

Renovating an old bathroom is always more work than it appears — lots of surprises, a steep learning curve, and plenty of moments that keep you on your toes. After the demo (which you may remember from the previous post), reassembly proved to be equally challenging but totally manageable with a little patience and help from family.

My dad, who had already DIYed two bathroom remodels this year, generously volunteered his time, tools and expertise. I took two days off work so the three of us could push through a four-day weekend and get the room back in shape. The plan: install new drywall on the walls, hang cement backerboard where tile would go, repair rot in the subfloor, and tile the shower surround and floor. My dad could hang drywall quickly and tile efficiently in his own bathrooms, so we were optimistic that the room might be usable by day four. I simply hoped to survive the effort. In the end, we hit most milestones but not without a few detours.

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The first weekend’s objective was straightforward: new cement backerboard (hardibacker) for the shower and floor, moisture-resistant greenboard for the non-tiled walls, 3/4″ plywood to reinforce the subfloor, and a few new 2x4s to repair any rot. We also stocked up on cedar shims, drywall screws and a masonry blade for cutting backerboard. That night we discovered hitch #1: the greenboard and plywood were too big to fit in my dad’s minivan. Solution: a rental truck and a late-night store drop-off for the oversized items.

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Day One (Friday): We picked up the oversized materials in the rental truck, then set about preparing the walls. The main challenge was matching the new wall thickness to the original walls, which had thick mortar, plaster and metal mesh. Because the tub remained in place, the new backerboard needed to line up exactly with the edge of the tub and the surrounding walls. The fix was to add two layers of furring strips to every stud so the 1/2″ backerboard would sit flush. We used long, corrosion-resistant screws to secure the furring strips through to the studs, creating a solid sandwich that would keep the installation stable.

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Early progress revealed another problem: we had not demoed the top two feet of old plaster and mortar above the shower because we assumed we could tile over it. After consulting tile experts, we learned that tiling over painted plaster and mortar is risky unless you use specialist products and extensive prep. So we removed that remaining plaster and metal mesh and re-installed the backerboard properly. It was time consuming but worth it for a long-lasting finish. The day ended with most of the shower backerboard in place and a well-earned order of Chinese food.

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Day Two (Saturday): We finished installing the hardibacker around the shower, then moved on to hanging greenboard on the walls that won’t be tiled — under the window and behind the sink and toilet. Greenboard was easier to cut (score and snap), but required precise measuring for openings like windows and vents and more furring to keep surfaces flush. While one of us handled most of the wallboard work, my dad addressed floor rot.

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The rot only affected two floor planks and the tops of two joists, so he sistered new 2x4s alongside the damaged joists, glued and screwed them into place, and replaced the planks. Once the new planks were installed the subfloor looked solid and stable. We taped and mudded the shower surround so it could dry in time for tiling, and installed most of the new plywood subfloor to bring the bathroom level with the rest of the house. Choosing 3/4″ plywood over thinner options paid off — the floor felt rock-solid and should better protect tile from cracking.

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Day Three (Sunday): Another morning, another trip to the store — this time for mudding tools, a metal corner fitting, and more furring strips. We fastened the corner fitting and lifted our largest greenboard panel into place, cutting precise openings for fixtures. Then we discovered hitch #4: a slow leak on a pipe that runs up through the roof. It wasn’t caused by our work; the leak ran down the pipe behind the wall. Heavy rain that day helped reveal the issue, and we were glad to catch it before sealing the wall. I temporarily sealed it from the interior with silicone and will address the roof flashing permanently soon.

Before finishing the final greenboard, we left a small personal time capsule: a handwritten note hidden behind the wall with our names and the date, wondering who will find it in the future. With the walls in place, we finished installing the plywood subfloor (after a few careful fitting attempts to match the tub’s curve). By the end of the day the floor was solid, level and ready for later stages — and our trip count to the hardware store had climbed into the sevens.

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Day Four (Monday): We were running low on steam but eager to start tiling. We traced the plywood template onto the remaining floor backerboard and cut it to fit, but decided not to install it yet to avoid damaging it during remaining construction and finishes. With the backerboard set aside, we finally began tiling the shower walls and got a solid start before wrapping up the long weekend. Despite fatigue, we left the site satisfied — tired but smiling and with a lot of progress behind us.

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We’re incredibly grateful to my dad for his experience and patience — his guidance turned many potential headaches into doable tasks. The project delivered its fair share of curveballs, but each problem solved made the end result more rewarding. Next up: a detailed tiling play-by-play, where we’ll share how the subway tile and marble floor came together.