Even though we joked we might eventually embrace the “unfinished chic” look of our exposed hood, we were ready to cover it. For the height, we followed the manufacturer’s recommendation: JennAir suggested a range, and we placed our hood at 34″ above the counter.
To plan the hood surround, the first step was a Photoshop mockup of two different designs to see what would look best. Our original idea imitated many inspiration pictures we’d saved, with square trim panels across the front.
That design felt a bit top-heavy, so we tried a sleeker option, which we liked much better.
I measured and sketched a scaled plan on graph paper, then drew the cover around the hood to visualize construction. On the same sheet I worked out what wood pieces I’d need.
My goals for the surround were straightforward:
- Make it sturdy using moisture- and grease-resistant plywood so it will last.
- Keep it as light as possible to avoid adding heavy weight to the wall.
- Make it attractive and in keeping with the kitchen’s style.
With plywood panels and 1x2s in hand, I started building from the bottom up. I constructed a U-shaped frame from three lengths of 1×2 screwed together using a Kreg Jig. To secure the frame to the wall, I made pocket holes for screws so it would attach firmly to the wood plank we used to mount the hood.
The frame doesn’t touch the hood itself, so the cover essentially “floats” around it. Our efficient range hood directs steam and moisture upward into the vent, and similar wood surrounds installed by cabinetmakers typically hold up fine in kitchens. After sharing our plans, many readers reported success with wood covers and no moisture problems, which reassured us.
Note: these photos were taken before we swapped out duct tape for metal foil tape on the vent joints; we corrected that later and will share those pictures in a follow-up post about ceiling repairs and other finishing steps.
Once the frame was up I nailed thin plywood panels into place for the first three sides.
Here it is with the first three sides installed.
We left a small gap around the hood to allow access to the control buttons—wide enough for fingers to reach, but not an obvious opening. From some angles you can still see the buttons, so they remain easy to use without being exposed.
To add the next tier, I built a slightly smaller 1×2 frame and beveled it on the table saw so the angled plywood would sit flush against it. The angle was an educated guess—close enough to improve the edge over a square cut.
That frame attached to the upper portion of the cover, and I added another small 1×2 to give the sloped plywood something to fasten to.
The sloped plywood panel fit into place nicely.
The next two side panels required precise cuts to match the angle, so I held each piece up and marked the exact line before cutting. Then I trimmed them on the table saw into matching quadrilaterals and attached them to the sides.
With those panels attached, the surround was starting to take shape. It still looked unfinished without trim, but the major construction was nearly complete.
For the topmost section—what I call the “chimney” that covers the vent pipe—I built a small 1×2 frame and screwed it into ceiling joists. I was careful to find firm backing so the piece would stay secure. The vent hole in the ceiling turned out larger than expected, so we’ll need to patch and finish it later and add crown molding around the hood for a polished look.
The chimney panel attached and completed the primary build phase.
At this point the hood was covered, controls remained accessible, and the structure was secure. It just looked a bit raw—ready for trim and finish work.
Trim makes a huge difference. To keep the surround light, I used thin, lightweight plywood for the trim and chose to glue most pieces in place to minimize nail holes. Once primed and painted with the same durable Benjamin Moore Advance paint we used on our cabinets, the glued trim should withstand typical kitchen conditions like heat, steam, and grease.
We also abandoned the original idea of smaller inset panels across the front and sides in favor of a cleaner look that better matches our cabinets. That simplified the trim work and sped up the process—before long I had the first row glued in place.
I liked working with Liquid Nails because it allowed a short adjustment window; blue painter’s tape held pieces while the adhesive cured. When that tube ran out I switched to a Loctite adhesive I had on hand, which set more firmly right away, so I had less adjustment time but stronger immediate hold.
The top trim took longer, especially after a mid-project run to buy more wood, but by the end of the day the surround looked much more finished.
We didn’t add trim to the chimney since it’s not meant to be decorative and there were no open seams that needed finishing. Once we patch the ceiling hole and install crown molding across the top of the wall and hood, the whole assembly will read as a cohesive, built-in element.
It’s not perfect yet—priming, painting, and a bit of caulking will make it seamless—but it meets my three goals: sturdy and durable, lightweight, and attractive.
This DIY surround doesn’t have the extras a custom-built professional piece might include, but once painted it will perform and look like painted cabinetry. It was also far less expensive than some of the $3–4K cabinet-style hoods we saw—our trim and plywood ran about $90, and with the hood sourced separately, brackets, and additional wood, the total for this project landed around $175, a fraction of commercial prices.
Since our kitchen was clean for upcoming photos, I grabbed a few after-shots. The space still needs crown molding, open shelves, paint, hardware, and other finishing touches, but covering that empty wall already makes the room feel more complete.
It feels a little odd to see something finally hanging where that wall was empty for months, but breaking up the tile field draws the eye in a good way. We’re eager to prime, paint, patch the ceiling, and hang the open shelves next—another project to tackle soon.
Have you ever built a range hood surround? Before this project I hadn’t, and it turned out to be a satisfying and approachable DIY. If you’re considering one, this process shows that with a little planning, basic tools like a table saw and Kreg Jig, and patience with trim and finish work, you can create a durable, attractive hood cover on a modest budget.