Last fall I spent a dreamy week in Florence, Italy, with three friends, including a day trip to Venice. I’ve already shared how I packed light for the trip, but here I’m recounting everything we did, saw, and ate. If you’re planning a visit to Florence (or Venice), this recap covers the highlights worth your time—and a few things we’d skip next time.
I traveled with Elsie and Emma (the sisters behind A Beautiful Mess) and Elise Joy. We’ve spent years visiting one another’s towns to shop, eat, and explore, so to celebrate Emma’s 40th we planned an international trip. Florence, with its art, architecture, markets, and excellent food, felt like the perfect fit.
We used a travel agent to coordinate accommodations and tours. It was my first time relying on an agent for a leisure trip, and it removed a lot of stress—though a couple of activities didn’t turn out as expected. I’ll note those so you can avoid the same pitfalls.
We stayed at a lovely boutique hotel, Hotel Il Guelfo Bianco—the photo above is the view from my room. The hotel has an inviting lobby, a beautiful atrium, and quiet rooftop patios where you can relax after a day out. My room on the fourth floor opened onto a small patio right outside the door.
I appreciated that the itinerary included unstructured time. Usually we had one planned activity—like a tour or museum—each day and the rest of the day free to explore, shop, or eat. One of our favorite moments was a free morning spent painting watercolors on the hotel rooftop; simple, restorative, and unexpectedly special.
I brought a small notebook to paint in, and Elise’s watercolor kit (from Etsy) worked perfectly for quick plein-air sketches.
Getting To & Around Italy
We each flew in from different cities; three of us connected in Chicago and flew together via Munich to Florence. A taxi booked by our agent took us to the hotel, and for the next four days we walked everywhere. Florence is highly walkable, with most attractions clustered in the center. We visited in early November and enjoyed clear, sunny weather, so comfortable shoes made exploring easy.
The only other transport we used was the train for our day-trip to Venice. Our agent booked the tickets in advance but we were able to change them ourselves without issue. Both Florence and Venice train stations are within walking distance of central areas, which made the trip straightforward.
What We Did In Florence
Below is a summary of the main sites, tours, and experiences we enjoyed, followed by notes on food and shopping.
Women of Florence Walking Tour: This private tour was a highlight. Our guide, a Florentine woman near our age, tailored the route to our interests—painting, architecture, and female artists and makers. She even introduced us to a female artisan who handcrafts Stradivarius-style violins in a small street-facing workshop. Along the way she pointed out landmarks and recommended local cafés and lunch spots.
The Duomo is enormous and breathtaking in person; photos can’t capture its scale or the intricacy of the marble work.
Florence’s centuries-old craftsmanship and architecture are constantly impressive; it’s one reason a guided walking tour is so rewarding.
Giunti Odeon: This cinema-bookstore is a delightful place to browse. The building is beautiful, the upstairs screening area is charming, and the book selection includes titles in both Italian and English.
Uffizi Gallery: The Uffizi was our favorite museum in Florence. It houses masterpieces like Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus—the painting is stunning in person—and the museum’s painted ceilings and connected rooms are captivating. We did a private tour here as well, and happily our walking tour guide led this tour too, which felt like a rare treat.
Gucci Galleria: Unexpectedly, this museum was a favorite. It’s visually striking and thoughtfully curated, with exhibits on scarf design and an immersive mirrored room filled with bags that seems to go on forever. It’s an enjoyable, compact stop if you like fashion and design.
Ikigai Tattoo Studio: Elsie, Emma and I have a tradition of getting small tattoos on trips. We picked this studio after reviewing artists’ portfolios online; it had several talented women artists whose delicate line work we liked. We walked in without appointments and left within about 90 minutes with new tattoos—quick, welcoming, and well executed.
Peggy Guggenheim (Venice): On our day trip to Venice, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection stood out. Housed in a palazzo that was once her home, the museum is intimate and full of modern masterpieces. We took a guided tour, but the space is easy to enjoy on your own. Don’t miss the garden, where Peggy Guggenheim is interred—her life and eccentricity made the visit especially memorable for our creative group.
Where We Ate In Florence
Buca San Giovanni: This hidden gem came recommended by a local we met. Down a few steps into a cove-like dining room, the food and service were wonderful and authentically Florentine. I doubt we would have found it on our own—don’t miss it if you can.
Paszkowski: A beloved bakery and café with great coffee, pastries, and a pleasant outdoor seating area for people-watching.
Gilli: This historic café serves excellent coffee, hot chocolate, and small plates—perfect for a leisurely outdoor lunch. It’s also where a local told us about Buca San Giovanni.
Cacio e Pepe: We had a phenomenal lunch here; their cacio e pepe was unanimously the best pasta we tasted during the trip.
La Bottega Di Via Maggio: A tiny restaurant that prepares everything fresh—we shared three varieties of gnocchi and enjoyed them all.
Gelato: You can’t go wrong—every gelateria we tried offered excellent gelato. Our group loved cherry flavor best, but sample widely and pick your favorite.
Where We Shopped In Florence
Ugo Poggi: A beautiful shop for plates, glassware, and serving pieces. Some items are pricey, but there are also more affordable treasures. Elsie bought a standout platter she’ll likely keep forever.
Santo Spirito Vintage Market: This monthly market (the second Sunday) was one of our favorite shopping discoveries. It’s a great place to hunt for vintage jewelry, pins, scarves, and artwork—plan your trip around it if you can.
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella: A historic apothecary selling perfumes, soaps, and home scents in a beautiful setting. The shop itself is nearly as lovely as the products.
Calzaiuoli Leather Factory: Recommended by a local we met, this shop offers soft, well-made leather goods—Elise and I both left with bags we adore.
The Things We Would Skip
Vasari Corridor: We booked this add-on through our agent, but it was underwhelming—a renovated, mostly white hallway with a few busts and a brief church view. The major portraits once displayed there are now in the Uffizi, which we enjoyed, so we’d skip the corridor and spend the money elsewhere.
Row Venice (Cichetto Row): This sounded like a scenic gondola outing, so we dressed up expecting a relaxing ride with snacks. Instead, participants were expected to row the boat themselves—more of a physical challenge than a sit-and-savor experience. It wasn’t a fit for our group at the end of a long day, though it could be fun if you’re after an active adventure.
More Favorite Trips
If you enjoyed this roundup, here are a few other trip recaps and travel posts worth reading for more ideas.
- A Girls’ Trip To Sedona
- How I Packed Light for Italy
- How I Packed Light For France
- Our Trip to Mexico with Kids… and a Dog!
- Costa Rica with Kids
- A Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina with Kids
- Palm Springs, California with Kids
- New Orleans With Kids
- 5 Things We Loved In Dallas, Texas
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