Remember that microwave we scored on sale a few months back? We ended up returning it.
When we first bought the large unit a few readers wondered why we needed such a big microwave. That got us thinking: we don’t actually microwave that much—mostly soup, reheating, or defrosting. Once we removed the kitchen’s original black over-the-range microwave (which matched our 30″ oven)…
…we realized how massive a new 30″ microwave would look next to the pantry. We’d planned to build it into a cabinet like we did in our first kitchen, but that would put it right against the side of the window:
Two weeks later, after enjoying how open the kitchen felt without heavy upper cabinets, we returned the oversized microwave and bought a much smaller countertop model instead—an 18″ unit for $84. Sherry calls it “modestly sized.” I even shoved a tea mug inside for scale:
We never intended for this smaller microwave to live on the countertop forever. The plan was to build it into a cabinet so it’s hidden most of the time but still vented and usable when needed.
We found that one of our old upper cabinets fits the microwave almost perfectly. The frame sits around the front edge of the cabinet and there’s roughly two inches of space on either side inside the cabinet.
Two issues needed solving:
- The cabinet was too tall to hang at the spot next to the pantry without looking awkward.
- The cabinet wasn’t deep enough for the microwave to sit back far enough to be flush and still have room for ventilation.
We had to shave down the cabinet’s height, create depth and ventilation, and add a door so the infrequently used microwave could be hidden. We’d already had an electrician install an outlet where the cabinet would hang, so power was ready.
Many custom kitchens integrate microwaves into their cabinetry. Before starting, we checked the microwave’s manual for ventilation requirements—some models need only the built-in feet clearance, while others have side or rear vents that require airflow. That determined how much space we needed at the back and sides.
First step: remove the shelf rails and mark the cuts. I measured, re-measured, leveled, and double-checked lines before taking the jigsaw to the cabinet.
After cutting, the cabinet looked a little worse for wear, but the new height was much better. Next I cut a hole in the back to create the extra depth and a ventilation channel, and I notched the bottom right side of the frame so the microwave door could open freely when the unit is shifted slightly to the right inside the cabinet. The notch will be hidden once the cabinet door is installed.
Here you can see how the microwave extends past the cabinet’s back, which helps vent it. We planned a vertical space behind the cabinet so air can flow up and out the top.
I added a small shelf above the microwave by nailing ledges inside the cabinet to support it. The cabinet still needed a top and a stronger back so it would sit away from the wall enough to allow ventilation and be securely fastened.
I sketched a plan, bought some wood, and built a new top from thin plywood, a pine face, and a scrap 2×4 to hold everything together. Along the back I screwed in doubled-up 1×4 blocks so the cabinet would sit a couple inches off the wall and still have solid wood to screw into when hanging. We routed a channel in a couple of those blocks to aid ventilation.
One side panel was formed from a thin piece of plywood clamped, cut to size, and nailed into place. After these modifications the cabinet looked much more finished and cabinet-like—ready for paint and a door to conceal the microwave.
With a helper we hung the modified cabinet next to the pantry, drilled vent holes in the left side to use the gap between it and the pantry, and slid the microwave in to plug it into the pre-installed outlet.
It’ll look much better once the door is installed and the cabinet is painted, but even now with a few cookbooks and plates it’s beginning to blend in.
On the routed area that’s only visible when the door is open: many cabinets don’t look perfect internally when opened (full of cookware, blenders, food storage, etc.), so we’re fine with a small hidden area behind the door. The goal is a clean, closed appearance.
The cabinet’s placement leaves 14″ of space to the right between the cabinet and the window over the sink. Once we install 12″ deep floating shelves on the oven wall, that same 14″ spacing will exist between the shelves and the window—so the layout will feel balanced rather than crowded.
Returning the large microwave refunded $255. We also sold the old over-the-range unit for $90, our old kitchen table and chairs for $120, and our old granite counters for $350. Subtracting $84 for the new countertop microwave, that’s roughly $731 returned to the kitchen budget—helpful as we approach the middle phase of the makeover.
We’re eager to finish painting cabinets and install the backsplash, but we’re keeping a realistic timeline—we still hope to finish by January. Before that comes a set of less glamorous but necessary tasks:
- trim and cut down the doors we added to size;
- add window trim and build a windowsill for the sink window;
- install toe kick around bases for a unified look (shoe molding will wait until after cork floors go in);
- remove cabinet doors, ensure they hang straight, fill holes and gaps with wood putty, and sand;
- prime everything;
- and then paint—decisions on color (white vs. a soft gray-beige) will be shared when final.
After that we’ll tackle lighting, cork floors, backsplash tile, floating shelves, and a built-in range hood—one cabinet day at a time. How about you—any kitchen projects, holiday cooking, painting, or demolition happening at your place?