Many moons ago we promised to share the DIY play-by-play for this shiplap‑style paneled wall treatment because it’s ridiculously easy and wonderfully budget‑friendly. To put it in relatable terms: the material cost was less than two boxes of my favorite light bulbs—or cheaper than dinner at Chipotle. In short, it cost only $31 for one kitchen.
In a recent backsplash post we explained why we used a different, simpler treatment on the stove wall in each duplex kitchen: the patterned tile felt too busy on two walls, so we chose a subtle, wipeable, low‑maintenance option instead. The result is a practical, low‑cost solution that holds up well in rental kitchens. Both duplex kitchens were rented all summer, and after heavy use they still look great.
Some call this look planking, horizontal paneling, or faux shiplap. We were inspired by designers who often use this treatment in beachy‑modern layouts, and by clever DIYs that make a big visual impact. The verdict: why didn’t we try this sooner?
This treatment is essentially thin sheets of plywood or underlayment cut into planks, nailed to the wall with small spacers between boards, and finished with semi‑gloss paint for durability and easy cleaning. We color‑matched the paint to the cabinets so the wall blends in and the tile and brick chimneys stay as the visual stars. Over months of heavy rental use it has proven to be durable and stain‑resistant—similar in practicality to beadboard backsplashes.
The key to keeping costs low is to avoid the pre‑made shiplap boards sold at big box stores. By cutting our own planks from thin 5mm underlayment we dropped the material cost to under $2 per 8‑foot equivalent, instead of $5–$6 for the premade boards. For our two kitchen backsplashes that approach saved around $100 in lumber while still producing a strong, attractive finish.
Cutting your own boards adds a bit of labor, but it’s a straightforward tradeoff for big savings. If you want the fastest route, buy pre‑cut, pre‑primed strips. If you’re on a budget, follow the underlayment method: it has a natural grain that gave our finished wall a nice subtle texture and proved very durable.
Materials
We already owned most tools and supplies, so the only purchases were wood and paint: two kitchens cost about $62 total for those items. If you need tools you may spend more up front, but they’re useful for many home projects and are good long‑term investments for DIYers.
Note: if you have a gas stove, check local code—some jurisdictions require a metal strip over wood backsplashes near gas burners. Our duplex kitchens use electric stoves, so that wasn’t a concern.
Here’s what we used:
- 4 × 8′ panels of 5mm underlayment (about $15/panel) — we used three panels for both kitchens and cut eight 8′ strips from each panel
- Primer (a quart is usually enough)
- Semi‑gloss paint (durable and easy to wipe clean)
- Wood filler that dries and sands smoothly
- Caulk for finishing edges
- Paint brush and small foam rollers
- Small spackle knife
- Nail gun and brad nails
- Table saw for ripping strips (or have strips cut at the store)
- Miter saw or hand saw for cutting lengths
- Jig saw for outlet and switch cutouts
- Drill/driver and a 1/2″ drill bit
- Sanding block
- Stud finder, level, and pencil
Cut Your Boards to Size
The underlayment comes in 4 × 8′ panels. We had ours cut into fourths at the store so the panels would fit in the car, then ripped those strips in half on the table saw to get roughly 6″‑wide planks. Tip: cut slightly less than 6″ (we used 5 7/8″) to account for material loss from the saw blade; otherwise your final piece may end up noticeably shorter than the others.
If a store will cut your strips exactly to size, you can skip the table saw. Either way you’ll need a miter saw or hand saw to trim each strip to the correct length for your wall. After cutting, give the edges a quick sanding to remove any splinters.
Prep Your Wall
Remove outlet covers and switch plates before installing the panels. Locate and mark studs so you can anchor the planks securely. We drew vertical reference lines with a long level at each stud location so it’s easy to follow them as you work upward.
Cut Holes for Outlets & Switches
Position the plank in front of the outlet and mark the width, then use a scrap piece to determine the correct height and mark that, too. Transfer those marks to the back of the plank to create a cutting guide.
Drill a 1/2″ starter hole in each corner of the marked area so you can slip a jigsaw blade in, then cut the outlet opening with the jigsaw. Reinstall the outlet so it sits on top of the plank edge rather than recessed behind it—this keeps the cover plate flush.
Nail Your Boards to the Wall
Start at the bottom and work up, using small spacers between boards to keep an even gap. We used leftover tile spacers, but anything thin and consistent will work—some DIYs even suggest pennies.
We secured the planks with 1.75″ brad nails driven into studs with a cordless nail gun. Some installers use construction adhesive as well, which can be helpful in humid environments to prevent warping. We chose nails only so the drywall behind the planks would remain intact in case we ever removed them; the installation has held up perfectly.
If possible, install the planking before attaching bulky fixtures like a range hood to make trimming faster. When we did trim around the hood it wasn’t difficult, just an extra step.
Prime, Patch, and Paint
After the boards were up the raw wood look was surprisingly nice, but our plan was to match the wall to the cabinets with a wipeable semi‑gloss finish. Start by priming the entire wall. Primer helps reveal nail holes and surface imperfections so you can fill and sand them cleanly.
Use a brush to get primer into seams and a small roller for the flat areas. If primer pools in the grooves, scrape it out with a nail or small tool before it dries. Once dry, fill nail holes and any visible knots with wood filler, sand smooth, then apply a second coat of primer if needed.
We finished with a single coat of semi‑gloss paint that had been color‑matched to our cabinets. After the paint dried we caulked the edges for a clean, finished look.
We repeated the same process on the other side of the duplex, completing both kitchens over a weekend. It wasn’t instantaneous, but the payoff—an attractive, durable, affordable wall treatment—was worth it.
This project delivered exactly what that side of the kitchen needed: a straightforward, low‑cost upgrade that holds up to real life. If you like high‑impact, budget‑friendly DIYs, this planked backsplash is a great option.
If you enjoy affordable DIY projects, try variations like board-and-batten, simple landscape lighting, adding crown molding to cabinets or rooms, installing a budget backsplash, or refinishing a table—many small improvements offer big style gains without breaking the bank.
P.S. We kept this approach intentionally simple so others can replicate it: cut thin underlayment into strips, fit and fasten to studs with consistent spacing, prime, fill, and paint for a durable, wipeable finish.
*Note: If your installation will include gas appliances, check local building codes regarding combustible materials near burners.