Installing a stair runner yourself might sound daunting, but it’s easier than you think—we’ve done it multiple times and even demonstrated the process on TV. Follow this clear step-by-step guide and you’ll have a professional-looking result. We also share a simple trick to make sure your rug is the right size before you cut or staple anything.
Adding a runner to your stairs does more than look good. It improves safety by reducing slips and falls, helps pets and small children navigate steps more easily, and dampens noise so footsteps are quieter. For households with kids, pets, or frequent foot traffic, a runner is a functional upgrade as well as an aesthetic one.
DIY Stair Runner Before & Afters
The first stair runner we installed replaced a worn-in carpet runner that came with the house. Along with the new bold striped rug, we refreshed the stairs by painting the risers, trim, and balusters white and dark-staining the handrail, which modernized the whole area.
For a later project in our current home we chose a beachy sisal runner and painted the treads a warm gray to brighten the staircase. Each installation lets you customize material, color, and trim to suit your style.
We even installed a runner on a small demo staircase during a TV segment. That quick installation reinforced how straightforward the process is when you follow a few simple steps.
There are many ways to personalize a stair runner project, so let’s get into the tutorial and tools you’ll need.
Tools, Materials, & Cost
Gather these supplies and tools before starting:
- Stair runner
- Rug pad
- Tape measure
- String
- Painter’s tape
- Electric staple gun and staples
- Sharpie
- Scissors
- Needlenose pliers
This project doesn’t have to be costly. Our first install was under $300, with the main variable being the runner you choose and the amount needed.
Steps To Install A Stair Runner
Our full project took about 20 hours, which included removing an old runner and painting. The actual runner installation took roughly 4 hours and will vary with staircase size. Overview of the process:
- Remove old runner (if necessary)
- Measure
- Select a runner
- Paint or stain stairs (optional)
- Mark placement
- Cut the rug pad
- Prepare your staples
- Start at the top
- Connect two runners (if needed)
- Finish the bottom edge
Step 1: Remove your old runner
If your stairs already have carpet or a runner, remove it first. This can be time-consuming—especially prying up old staples—so plan accordingly. Removing the old material and cleaning the surface will make installing the new runner much easier.
Step 2: Measure
Measure carefully before ordering a runner. Key dimensions are length and width so you can choose a stock size or order custom.
Measuring runner length
Measure one step’s riser plus tread (including the bullnose). Multiply by the number of steps, then add 10–15% extra for safety. Having too much material is far better than running short.
Measuring runner width
Most runners leave a 2–3″ reveal on each side. Measure the narrowest stair width and subtract 4–6″ to determine the runner width. Be mindful if stairs flare at the bottom—the runner should look balanced top to bottom.
Step 3: Select a runner
Nearly any rug can be adapted as a stair runner, but choose a durable, low-pile material that’s easy to clean—indoor/outdoor polypropylene, wool, cotton, or sisal are good options. You can use stock runners or order custom sizes depending on your needs.
Using a stock runner
Stock runners are often more affordable and come in many patterns and sizes. They may require a bit of creativity to fit perfectly, but they perform well when installed correctly.
Stock options typically cost less and can last for years if you choose a quality material and maintain it.
Using a custom runner
Custom runners let you pick exact dimensions, color, border, and material. They cost more but give precise control over the finished look, which can be worth it for unusual stair widths or specific design goals.
Both stock and custom runners can work beautifully—choose the option that best matches your budget and design priorities.
Step 4: Paint or Stain Your Stairs
If you plan to paint or stain any part of the staircase, do it before installing the runner. Painting risers, balusters, or treads now prevents accidental drips or damage to a finished runner. This is also a good time to make repairs like fixing loose treads or touching up molding.
For painted treads, use a durable porch and floor enamel or suitable floor paint to ensure long-lasting wear.
Step 5: Mark Your Placement
Use painter’s tape and a measuring tape to mark the runner’s edges on each tread before you begin. These guides help you keep the runner straight and centered as you work, preventing it from drifting to one side.
Step 6: Cut The Rug Pad
A rug pad under the runner adds cushion and helps prevent shifting. You can use carpet tape instead if you prefer less cushion. Choose a thin pad (around 1/8″) with a non-slip backing and cut it into strips that cover each tread, wrapping around the bullnose but not extending up the riser.
Cutting the pad into strips saves material and avoids bulky seams against risers.
Step 7: Prepare Your Staples
An electric staple gun designed for upholstery works best to secure a stair runner. Hand-powered guns often aren’t powerful enough. One practical tip: color a strip of staples with a matching Sharpie before loading them to reduce shine and make them less noticeable once installed.
Coloring staples isn’t about a perfect color match—it removes the reflective shine so they blend into the rug. Test a few staples to find the best ink color for your runner.
Step 8: Start At The Top
Begin at the top lip of the staircase. Position the runner so its top edge is flush and aligned with your tape markings, then staple under the top lip and place several staples across each tread edge to hold it in place. Pull the runner tight as you work—staple under the lip at the top and then secure along the riser, not the tread, so no metal is exposed to bare feet.
Work step-by-step toward the bottom. Add rug pad strips on each tread as you go and use pliers to remove any misfired staples.
Step 9: Connect Two Runners
If one runner doesn’t reach the bottom, hide the seam by terminating the first runner under a tread’s lip. Trim the end, staple it under the bullnose, then start the second runner under that same lip and continue down. The transition can be very subtle when positioned and stapled carefully.
Step 10: Finish The Bottom Edge
When you reach the bottom, trim excess material leaving about an inch. Fold that extra under the runner and staple it into the bottom of the riser to create a neat, finished edge and prevent fraying.
And that’s it—you’re done. The runner should look smooth, sit securely, and make your stairs safer and quieter.
Stair Runner FAQs
Common questions about stair runners:
How well do stair runners hold up?
With regular vacuuming and occasional spot cleaning, a good-quality runner will last for years. Durable materials like polypropylene, wool, and sisal perform well under heavy traffic. Expect some sun fading or light wear over time, but proper care goes a long way.
Do stair runners damage the stairs?
Installation requires small staples in the risers, and covered treads may fade differently than exposed wood. These are reversible issues: fill staple holes with wood putty and touch up paint or stain to restore the finish if you ever remove the runner.
What are the advantages of a stair runner?
Runners improve safety by providing traction, reduce noise, protect the stair surface, and add visual interest to your entry or hallway.
How do stair runners stay in place?
Staples combined with rug pad strips secure the runner: staples anchor it to the riser while the non-slip pad prevents movement on the treads. Stair carpet rods are another option for adding security and decorative detail.
What are alternatives to a stair runner?
If you don’t want a permanent runner, consider non-slip treads or clear non-slip pads applied with carpet tape. These options improve traction for pets and children without covering the entire staircase.
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