We aimed to have all the nursery’s extra-chunky crown molding painted, cut, hung, caulked, and touched up by the end of the weekend—and we just made it. Crown molding is one of those “nice-to-have” details that always blows us away once it’s in place. Even basic, boxy rooms instantly look taller and more finished. That’s been especially helpful in our house, where few rooms have architectural features like extra-high ceilings or arched doorways. With the addition of our small corner built-ins and this bold crown, this 11 x 13.5′ rectangle of a room is finally starting to feel like a proper nursery.
We followed the same installation method we used in Clara’s room: install 3 1/4″ baseboard as the first layer, run it around the room, and space it down about 1.5″ from the ceiling for that chunky look. We used a spacer to keep the drop consistent, a level to ensure it stayed straight, and marked studs with painter’s tape so we could nail into solid backing.
The second layer was actual crown molding—we used beefy 4 5/8″ profiles from Home Depot—laid over the baseboard to complete the chunky effect. You can see how one side already has the crown in place while the other side shows only the baseboard waiting for the crown. We matched the style to the crown on the first floor and our master bedroom so everything reads as cohesive throughout the house.
To save time we chose pre-primed baseboard and crown, laying the pieces out on a drop cloth and painting them before installation. Painting on the floor is much faster than painting in place and means only minimal touch-ups after hanging and caulking. We painted most of the trim white while painting just a small strip in the room color to make matching easy during touch-ups—overall we were really happy with the finish.
After the crown was hung but before caulking and paint touch-ups, the uneven wavers in the ceiling were still visible. A bead of caulk pressed into the gap and smoothed with a finger filled those imperfections quickly. We apply caulk about a foot at a time so we can wipe excess off the painted surfaces before it dries—this usually eliminates the need for ceiling or trim touch-ups.
Once we filled nail holes, caulked, and removed the painter’s tape marking the studs, the room started to look much more finished. The chunky molding erased many of the little unfinished seams and instantly made the space feel polished.
For extra installation details and photos of this baseboard-plus-molding approach, we documented the same process in Clara’s room. The cost for that larger room was $137; for the nursery we estimate around $115 for materials from Home Depot, plus caulk and paint if you don’t already have them.
I also started on crib bedding, which I’ve been excited about. I found an organic crib sheet on sale at Pottery Barn for $9.99—organic sheets have become much more affordable in recent years compared to when Clara was born. For the crib skirt I used 1.5 yards of fabric purchased during a JoAnn sale, which cost just $3.73 after discounts. Small victories like that always inspire a little happy dance at checkout.
At home I cut three panels from the fabric—two sides and a front—to make the skirt. To determine panel sizes I measured the crib skirt area’s height and length, then added 3″ to each measurement to allow for 1.5″ hems on both sides. For patterned fabrics, be sure all three panels run in the same direction and have the pattern aligned so you don’t end up with mismatched stripes or misaligned prints.
I debated sewing versus using Heat N’ Bond hemming tape. Since the crib skirt I made for Clara with Heat N’ Bond held up well, I opted for it again—especially because the skirt is tucked away and not a high-contact item. Materials needed are simple: fabric, hem tape, scissors, an iron, and some small Velcro tabs to attach the skirt to the crib frame.
Hemming with Heat N’ Bond is straightforward: iron it on, peel the backing, fold the fabric over, and iron again to set the hem. To join panels, I hemmed each panel, applied a strip of hem tape to the back edge of one panel, overlapped the second panel, and ironed the join so it fused cleanly. The seam ends up on a crib corner behind a leg where it won’t be visible.
I attached the assembled skirt to the metal crib frame with small Velcro tabs, which makes removal and washing easy. Hem tape is also machine-washable if you follow the product instructions and avoid high heat.
We also darkened the bottom drawer of the crib using two coats of satin PolyShades gel stain in Tudor to better coordinate with the floors and dresser tops. The darker tone helps ground the light-colored crib and ties in with the dark hardware on the built-ins and the oil-rubbed bronze doorknob. To seal the stain we applied two satin coats of Safecoat Acrylacq, a low-chemical, non-toxic sealer that minimizes off-gassing.
For now I quickly placed a few items on the built-in bookshelves so they wouldn’t feel empty, but I’m excited to add baskets, frames, books, toys, and other colorful details. The shelves will be very functional and a great way to introduce personality to the room.
We’re still deciding what to put above the crib—options include a large-scale piece of art, a slatted accent wall, or a bold mobile. We tried leaning bike prints there, but they felt too busy with the built-ins, so they’ll likely go on the opposite wall. We’re leaning toward a large mobile with bold green, black, and white elements—possibly featuring a different animal motif to fit the nursery’s theme.
There’s still more to do—three walls haven’t been addressed yet and the room needs more color and personality—but adding chunky crown molding and finishing the built-ins has taken a big step toward making this space feel like a nursery. What did you work on this weekend? Any bare bookcases or empty walls that are calling for attention?