Last month’s arctic blast brought unusually cold temperatures to Florida. We experienced three consecutive nights in the low 20s, with a low near 18 degrees — a severe deviation from our typical winter lows in the mid-40s. Local meteorologists dubbed this a “once-in-a-century” deep freeze, and it became the ultimate test for our landscaping. We took several measures to protect our plants; some worked better than others. Below are the steps we followed, what helped, and what we learned.
Protecting people, pets, and pipes is the top priority during extreme cold, but plants are often high on the list too. Because we’ve invested time and money in our landscaping, we wanted to do everything reasonable to save what we could and avoid the expense and labor of replanting. Here’s how we prioritized and executed plant protection during the freeze.
Tip 1: Identify Plants Vulnerable to Freezing
Start by identifying which plants are least likely to tolerate the forecasted lows. Most plants are chosen for your USDA hardiness zone, but prolonged, unusually cold snaps can exceed those tolerances. We quickly searched each plant’s “cold tolerance” or “cold hardiness” online to prioritize which needed immediate attention and which would likely survive. For example, our saw palmettos were hardy enough to be left alone, while our foxtail ferns needed protection.
If you’re unsure of a plant’s name, plant identification via smartphone camera or a plant ID app can help you find care and hardiness information quickly.
Tip 2: Bring Plants Inside, If Possible
The most reliable way to protect vulnerable plants is to move potted specimens indoors where it’s warm. We brought inside many small-to-medium pots and hanging planters; this was the only approach that gave us a 100% survival rate. We spread tarps at entryways to protect floors from drainage and soil, and crammed as many pots as we could into spare rooms. It was inconvenient and cramped during the holiday weekend, but it saved significant expense in lost plants.
If you can’t bring plants into a heated home, relocate them to a protected space such as a garage, basement, or enclosed porch. Potted plants freeze faster than plants in the ground because their root balls have less insulation, and keeping them out of wind reduces heat loss.
We estimate the plants we brought in saved us several hundred dollars. Even large specimens like our fiddle leaf fig were worth the effort to move inside, despite tight spaces and some inconvenience.
Tip 3: Add Pine Straw or Mulch
For plants that remained in the ground, adding a fresh layer of mulch, especially pine straw, helped insulate the soil and plant bases. Mulch traps air and reduces heat loss, and damp soil actually holds more heat than dry soil, so watering before a freeze is also useful. We had already planned to freshen up beds for holiday guests, and that mulch helped provide added protection during the cold snap.
Tip 4: Cover Plants With Breathable Fabric
Covering plants with breathable fabric helps trap heat from the soil and plant, similar to how a blanket works for humans. We used frost blankets and landscape fabric to protect many shrubs and smaller trees. Key tips we learned:
Use breathable fabric, not plastic
Breathable materials are preferable because they allow airflow and reduce moisture buildup. Plastic can trap moisture against foliage and cause more harm during freezing conditions. Spare bedsheets or frost blankets work well when available.
If frost blankets aren’t available, try landscape fabric
When frost blankets sold out locally, landscape fabric — typically used for weed control — was a reasonable substitute. It’s thinner but still offered protection and was more affordable.
Don’t “lollipop” your plants
Drape covers all the way to the ground so the soil’s heat can be trapped. Leaving only the top covered is much less effective. Secure covers with garden stakes or landscape pins to prevent wind from lifting them.
Tip 5: Add an Ambient Heat Source
Adding a low level of warmth beneath covers can improve their effectiveness. We wrapped old-school incandescent C9 Christmas lights around and through plant beds because they generate a small amount of heat. LED lights don’t emit enough warmth to help. Be mindful not to overload circuits when using multiple strands.
After draping lights, we covered the plants with frost blankets; the effect was both functional and oddly atmospheric.
Some gardeners also use hot water in sealed containers placed near plants, but we found lights to be more convenient during the holiday weekend.
How Did Our Plants Fare?
Despite our efforts, many tropical plants suffered from the sustained freeze. Results were mixed: some covered and mulched plants looked pristine when uncovered, while others wilted badly. Bringing pots inside was the only strategy that succeeded without exception.
Different outcomes often depended on species and microclimates within our yard. For example, one lime tree remained healthy while another dropped leaves and fruit; both were mulched and covered but one was more sheltered from wind. Many monsteras, elephant ears, and gingers went limp, while our philodendrons showed new shoots at the base. Some fiddle leaf figs planted in the ground were badly damaged, yet one small, recently planted specimen emerged unscathed — likely because it sat in a corner with two fence sides acting as a windbreak.
We remain cautiously optimistic about recovery. Often leaves die back while roots and stems survive, allowing plants to regrow in spring. Time will tell which plants fully recover.
What’s the Good News?
Don’t assume brown leaves equal dead plants. A damaged leaf often protects the plant while the roots and crown remain viable. Several plants have already shown signs of new growth in the weeks since the freeze. With patience, many may rebound and produce fresh leaves once temperatures stabilize.
Tip 6: Don’t Prune Right Away
Avoid heavy pruning immediately after a freeze. Wait for new growth to appear so you can accurately determine which branches or plants are truly dead. Some damaged material can provide insulation against subsequent cold snaps, and premature pruning can stress plants or stimulate vulnerable new growth. Remove only mushy, rotten, or moldy tissue to prevent rot, but otherwise wait until the risk of frost has passed and new growth confirms what needs to be trimmed.
Our general approach has been to let frozen or browned leaves fall off naturally while removing any material that is slimy or clearly rotting. In previous winters we’ve seen plants look dead only to recover vigorously once moved to a better environment, so we’re exercising patience.
Additional Freezing Weather Preparation
We also took steps to protect plumbing and outdoor fixtures during the freeze. Many neighbors experienced burst pipes, especially in outdoor showers, so we capped and drained exposed lines where possible and kept heat on indoors. These precautions helped prevent property damage in addition to preserving plant health.
Final Thoughts
The freeze was a stressful event for people and plants alike. Our most effective actions were bringing potted plants indoors, mulching beds, covering plants with breathable fabric down to the soil, and using low-heat ambient sources under covers. Results varied by plant species and location, and patience is now the best strategy: wait to prune, monitor regrowth, and decide this spring which plants to replace or move. Despite the damage, many plants show hope for recovery — and if nothing else, the event taught us where our yard’s microclimates provide the best protection.
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