Who wants to refinish a table? If that’s you, great — we refinished two dining tables using elbow grease, no chemical strippers, and plenty of sanding. It’s a reminder that you can revive thrifted or handed-down furniture with a little time and the right approach.
Why Refinish a Table?
We needed two dining tables for our duplex rental since each side has its own dining area. One was an old Crate & Barrel table we inherited from a friend; she warned us the cherry finish was scratched and in need of attention. The other was my sister’s farmhouse table — worn from years of use but solid, perfectly sized, and full of character.
Both tables were solid wood, which made them excellent candidates for refinishing. If either had been laminate or veneered, the process would have been different. Because both were already beaten up, we weren’t shy about taking a sander to them.
The farmhouse table from my sister had visible wear but a great feel and structure, so we were excited to bring it back to life.
Tools to Refinish a Table
We prefer to avoid harsh chemicals, so here are the tools and supplies we used to refinish both tables:
- Random orbital or palm sander (corded random orbital gave the fastest results)
- 80-grit (coarse) and 120-grit (fine) sandpaper
- Paper towels or tack cloth
- Shop vacuum or leaf blower for dust removal
- Stain-grade paintbrushes and rags
- Wood stain (we used Minwax Special Walnut and Minwax Classic Gray)
- Water-based polyurethane sealer (we used a “Triple Thick” version for extra protection)
- Mask and nitrile gloves for protection
The mask and gloves are optional but helpful for comfort and cleanliness while working.
Step 1: Sand a Test Spot
We started cautiously by removing and sanding the top of one table leg as a test. This small, inconspicuous area helped us see how deep the finish went and what the underlying wood looked like. If the test had gone poorly, it would be easy to hide.
The test went beautifully, which gave us the confidence to continue.
Step 2: Sand Off the Old Finish
With the test spot approved, we sanded all surfaces using 80-grit paper and a battery-operated sander to start, working with the grain in small sections. The old stain gradually came off and revealed the lighter wood beneath.
After an hour the battery sander was slow, so we upgraded to a corded random orbital sander. The extra power made sanding faster and produced a cleaner result — well worth the purchase for this job.
Step 3: Smooth Out Scratches & Dents
The corded orbital sander was especially helpful removing deep scratches and gouges on the farmhouse table. It smoothed stubborn marks and revealed the true grain of the wood beneath the thick factory finish.
Sanding the factory finish off the Crate & Barrel table uncovered a surprising amount of wood grain under the dark red stain.
Step 4: Finish Sanding with Fine Grit Paper
After removing the old finish, give the entire table a once-over with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface, especially the tabletop. This creates an even surface for stain or sealer.
It took about two to three hours to sand both tables, counting all the legs and aprons. The heavier-duty sander sped things up and improved the finish.
Step 5: Clean Off Your Sanding Dust
Before staining or sealing, remove all dust and debris. We used a leaf blower outside to clear most of the dust and then wiped the surfaces with a damp paper towel and tack cloth. A shop vacuum works well indoors.
Step 6: Apply Your Stain and/or Sealer
We transported the tables to the duplex before staining so we could judge the color in the room. First we tested a clear sealer on the farmhouse table to see how the raw wood would look.
The clear sealer slightly deepened the wood tone without hiding the grain, and we liked the result. We applied one coat of water-based sealer and a second coat of a thicker “Triple Thick” version for added protection and a satin finish.
After sealing, the farmhouse table looked refreshed and natural, tying in nicely with nearby wood elements in the room.
With the table in place the space felt more finished and cohesive.
Step 7: Don’t Be Afraid to Layer Stains
On the Crate & Barrel table the clear sealer brought out red undertones we didn’t want, so we layered stains to adjust the tone. We started with Minwax Special Walnut, which looked good going on but dried redder than desired. A light coat of Classic Gray over the walnut cooled the color and balanced the warmth.
We wiped the gray on lightly and removed it quickly so it didn’t soak in fully and become too gray. The two-layer approach let the wood’s natural variation show through while shifting the overall tone to a cooler brown.
After the layered stains dried, we sealed the table with two coats of the same “Triple Thick” sealer used on the farmhouse table. The result preserved wood character while achieving the cooler tone we wanted.
For reference, this is how the red Crate & Barrel table looked before refinishing.
With the refinished tables in place and updated lighting above, the rooms felt transformed.
On the other side of the duplex we paired the second table with a mixed-finish globe light and simple white dining chairs for an updated but lived-in look. The combination of old and new elements gave both dining spaces personality without the cost of buying new tables.
Alternate: How to Paint Furniture
If refinishing doesn’t give the look you want, painting is another great option. Painting works well on many wood pieces, and there are specific techniques for laminate or veneered furniture if your tabletop isn’t solid wood.
P.S. For more furniture makeovers and DIY projects, explore furniture upgrade tutorials and ideas.
*This post contains affiliate links*