With our fireplace refacing plan finalized and supplies at the ready, we dove into step one: tile. Below is a clear recap of the entire process — from prep and cutting to installation and grouting — in case you want to try this yourself.
I highlighted the areas in the photo that we planned to tile. The tiled border is only about 7 inches wide because the remainder of the brick will be covered with a wood and MDF surround that sits on top of the tile — so tile goes first.
Before starting, check local codes to ensure your wood surround stays the required distance from the firebox. Our code required at least 6″ of tile before any wood could begin. And no, the tile color wasn’t a weird yellow-green — it ended up looking much better in person.
We selected a white marble subway tile from Home Depot that cost a little over $5 per square foot — a great marble look without the premium price tag.
To attach tile properly we needed a smooth substrate, so we used 1/4″ cement board. We cut the sheets using the score-and-snap method, then fastened them to the brick with masonry screws and a masonry bit. The process was dusty and went faster with two people — one holding the board while the other drilled.
We cleared everything off the mantel before drilling. It’s worth removing décor and fragile items to avoid accidents — ask me how I know. We also demoed the old wood top so we were working with a clean surface before tiling.
For the hearth, instead of tearing out the old surface, we adhered cement board on top with heavy-duty construction adhesive and clamped it down overnight using weighted furniture. Later we added a few screws at the corners for extra stability.
Because we had previously installed cork flooring over linoleum (to avoid disturbing an asbestos liner), adding cement board and tile on top lined everything back up so the hearth wasn’t oddly raised.
With cement board in place, the fireplace was ready for tile installation.
Before mixing thinset, we protected the cork floors with rosin paper taped down to prevent thinset and grout from making a mess.
We laid out the tile ahead of time to plan the pattern, check for defects, and balance the veining across the field. Buying extra boxes for cuts and overage is smart — we returned unused boxes and ended up using about 90% of what we bought.
To avoid clumping similar veining in one area, we spaced tiles out and created a pile of marginal tiles to use for side cuts. Many of those imperfect tiles could be trimmed and used on edges.
We decided on a mixed look: a herringbone pattern across the hearth and a traditional brick-lay pattern on the narrow surround. With only a 7″ band visible around the firebox, herringbone alone would have looked busy and disjointed; combining patterns gave a balanced, intentional appearance.
A triangle square tool was invaluable because most hearth cuts were at 45 degrees. We made the cuts with a wet saw — a straightforward method that most DIYers can handle. The marble is somewhat brittle, so occasional corners chipped off near the end of cuts, but overall it was easier to work with than some other tile types.
With thinset mixed (we used leftover from a previous project), we began setting tile. The process is methodical: spread thinset, set tile, use spacers or consistent alignment, and keep repeating. We’ve detailed basic tiling techniques in other posts, so I won’t rehash every step here.
Once the pattern was underway, the work became repetitive but predictable. The bottom hearth took about four hours, including breaks. The following day we completed the top portion during a quieter part of the day; straight cuts were faster and less fussy.
Because the outer edge of the tile would be concealed by the MDF surround, we purposely staggered cuts so we could reuse both halves of some tiles. That strategy reduced waste and made the layout more efficient.
By the end of day two, all tile was installed. The white strip of brick inside the firebox is slated to be painted charcoal to match the firebox, and trim will make the hearth edge seamless once the surround is built.
The next evening we grouted with a non-sanded grout in Snow White from Home Depot. Grouting transformed the look dramatically — filling the joints and making the pattern read crisply. Sherry smoothed grout with a slightly damp sponge while I worked the joints; the whole grout session took about 45 minutes.
After the grout cured according to manufacturer instructions, we sealed the stone and grout using a tile sealer we had on hand. Sealing took only a few minutes and helps protect the marble and grout from stains.
The result is a completely re-tiled hearth and surround in white marble that feels like a major upgrade for roughly seven hours of actual work. The materials and costs broke down roughly as follows:
- Cement board (2 sheets): $16
- Masonry screws: already owned
- Liquid Nails Heavy Duty: $2
- Subway tile: $5.50/sq ft, totaling $70
- Thinset: already owned
- Tiling tools (saw, trowel, float, etc): already owned
- Grout: $11
- Tile sealer: already owned
- TOTAL: $99 (with gift cards and existing supplies we spent about $49; without those this upgrade might run closer to $150)
We’re thrilled with the herringbone + subway combo — it feels elevated and intentional without being over the top. Next up: building the surround, reconstructing the mantel, adding trim and molding, priming and painting, and then celebrating with a cookie or two.
Has anyone else tiled a fireplace or used a herringbone pattern? Share tips if you have them — we’d love to hear about your experiences.
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