Who framed Roger Rabbit? I can’t recall that movie’s ending, but who framed our hall bathroom mirror? We did.
Adding a dressed-up frame to a plain builder mirror is one of the easiest and most cost-effective ways to elevate a bathroom. We weren’t gutting this room—luckily the classic black-and-white tile is in great shape—so a framed mirror was the perfect upgrade. The mirror had been naked since we moved in two years ago, and it felt overdue for a little attention.
There are ready-made solutions available, but we wanted to make our own frame. It’s a straightforward project, though extra care is needed because there isn’t much space around the mirror to attach anything. We decided on a simple, chunky flat frame that would coordinate with the nearby shelf without competing with other features like the patterned window shade or the new vanity knobs.
We picked up a few 1×3 pine boards cut to length for a total material cost of about $14. I cut mitered corners on a miter saw for clean joints, though you can simplify the design if you don’t have that tool.
The tricky part was fitting the frame over the plastic clips holding the mirror to the wall. To make the frame sit flush, I needed to notch the wood so the clips would recess inside. I marked generous notches to allow for wiggle room when positioning the frame—roughly twice the size of the clips so alignment wouldn’t be tight.
If you don’t own a router, don’t worry. My router was actually broken, so I used an alternate method to create the notches:
- I used a Dremel to score the outline of each notch for cleaner edges (optional).
- I drilled several small pilot holes inside the marked notch area.
- I followed with a larger drill bit to enlarge the holes so they began to connect.
- I finished by gently chipping away remaining wood with a flathead screwdriver and hammer until the notch was clear.
The result isn’t perfectly smooth like a routed pocket, but the notches are shallow and hidden behind the clips, so appearance wasn’t an issue. One notch ran along the bottom of the frame and won’t be visible once installed.
After creating the four notches, I used a Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and joined the corners. The assembled frame looked sturdy and square when dry-fit against the mirror.
Before painting, we test-fit the frame to make sure the notches lined up with the clips and the whole assembly sat flush against the mirror.
It fit.
I primed and painted the frame in Benjamin Moore Decorator’s White (semi-gloss), using a small foam roller for a smooth finish. While we were at it, we painted the nearby shelf to match so the area would feel cohesive.
Some people attach frames directly to the mirror with construction adhesive, but from past experience I prefer mechanical fasteners for security. We sized the frame so it overlapped the top edge of the mirror, which is the only unobstructed edge. That allowed us to drive a couple of screws through the frame into the wall without risking contact with the mirror. The frame is lightweight, so a couple of screws provided enough support.
To keep the bottom edge from moving, we added a few small dots of silicone caulk between the frame and the mirror and taped the bottom in place while the caulk cured. A few days later we removed the tape; the frame stayed solid even after giving Clara a bath in the tub below.
When the caulk and paint fully cured we filled the screw holes with wood putty and touched them up with paint so the fasteners were concealed. The finished look was clean and much more polished than the original frameless mirror.
Even a simple frame made a big visual difference. It helps draw the eye upward, making the room feel taller and more finished—especially balanced with the extra tall shower curtain on the opposite side.
The entire frame cost about $14 in materials and took roughly three hours of work, including measuring, cutting, notching, priming, and painting.
Since this wrapped up the last project for this part of the bathroom, here’s a quick budget recap. Our mini-update stayed well under a loose $200 budget:
- New light fixture: $61
- Shelf: $6
- Paint (quart): $24
- Fish art: $30
- Knobs: $17
- Window shade fabric: $16 (we used about $8 worth)
- Window frosting: $0 (leftover)
- Mirror frame: $14
- Other items (shadowbox, accessories): already owned
- Total: $168
The window fabric and the fish art ended up being the real stars—those two elements brought life to the room while the neutral backdrop kept everything balanced.
With this project done, we can close the books on this bathroom for now—though the guest bathroom still needs attention. Looking back at the before picture from when we moved in, it’s amazing how much impact a few targeted, inexpensive changes can make.
I’m pleased with this $168 refresh. The after photos make the room feel nearly new, even though we kept the original 1960s tile. Are you tackling any under-$200 upgrades around your house—mirror frames, floating shelves, or other bathroom projects? For us, a little effort went a long way toward a much gussied loo.
