We did it: we transformed our kitchen’s old laminate countertops with a concrete finish. In a recent post Sherry shared a quick peek at our first coat, and here we’re sharing the final results, a step-by-step recap of the process, and a short in-action clip to help explain how it all came together.
We’re really pleased with the outcome. Photographs don’t fully capture the change, but the kitchen now looks far less laminate and much more like a modern, solid surface. The photos come across a bit stark, but once we add colorful window treatments, style the shelves and counters, and replace the faux brick flooring and the almond stove, the space should feel completely refreshed.
Fair warning: this project was more work—and dust—than we expected. It was manageable, not complicated, but definitely time- and labor-intensive.
Here’s what the counters looked like before: creamy-yellow laminate with the usual nicks, scratches, and heat marks. We treated both the main U-shaped cooking area and the adjacent eat-in nook. We haven’t sealed the surface yet, which is expected to deepen the color slightly once completed.
We used Ardex Feather Finish for this DIY concrete countertop resurfacing project. Inspired by other DIYers’ results and the modest price of Ardex, we went in optimistic—but learned quickly it would be a multi-day effort. We used roughly 2.5 bags for about 45 square feet of counter area, although some of that was applied a bit thicker than necessary.
Because we were first-timers and our area was fairly large (the U-shaped counters plus the nook), the work stretched across five days. It wasn’t technically difficult, but each coat required careful spreading, drying, and a lot of sanding between coats. Below is a concise list of what we used and why.
- Ardex Feather Finish – the self-leveling concrete-like finish we applied in multiple thin coats.
- Mixing bucket – a small bucket worked well for mixing small batches, since the product sets up quickly.
- Measuring buckets – we used one for water and one for powder to keep the mix ratio consistent.
- Sandpaper – a range of grits. We used 60, 120 and 220 grit for different sanding stages, plus sanding blocks for grip.
- Spreading tools – a 10″ drywall knife for large flats, a 4″ putty knife for edges and backsplash, and a smaller knife for tight spots around the sink.
- Cleanup supplies – sponges and paper towels to wipe drips from walls, plus painter’s tape for protection in selected spots.
- Protective gear – dust masks or a respirator, safety glasses, and gloves to protect hands from sanding abrasion.
We began by roughing up the laminate with coarse sandpaper to give the Ardex something to adhere to. Early on we learned gloves and sanding blocks make that step much less painful on the hands. The bag recommends a 2:1 powder-to-water ratio, but we found that slightly thinner mixes—closer to a toothpaste consistency—spread more easily and avoided overly thick first coats. Mix only small batches at a time because Ardex starts to set within 15–20 minutes.
Applying the material on flat areas felt oddly satisfying—like icing a large cake. The big 10″ blade made the broad sections quick to cover. Sides and backsplash took more patience and smaller tools. We usually applied top coats first and then used a smaller putty knife to cover vertical edges, when the mixture had firmed up a bit and was less likely to slide off.
About 20 minutes after applying a coat, the surface would firm to a clay-like state and could be smoothed with a damp finger or small tool to refine the edges. We found this technique useful for getting a cleaner bottom line and for blending ridges before sanding.
We initially taped the wall to protect it from splatter, but removing tape after several coats was tedious and sometimes pulled at the material. Eventually we stopped taping and carefully peeled what remained. Pulling tape down from the top tended to yield cleaner edges than tearing it sideways.
Sanding is where the finish really comes together. After the surface dried overnight we scraped obvious ridges with a putty knife, then sanded each layer by hand. We chose hand sanding to avoid aggressive machine marks and to better control tight areas like the backsplash and sink perimeter. For intermediate layers we used coarse 60-grit to remove high spots, and for the final coat we switched to 220-grit for a smoother surface.
Expect a lot of dust: the sanding produces a fine gray powder that settles everywhere. We paused frequently to vacuum with a shop vac, then swept and mopped after each day’s work to prevent tracking dust through the house.
Multiple coats are important. After our first round a few spots of laminate peeked through along edges, but subsequent coats covered those areas. Wet Ardex looks noticeably darker than dry, and sealing will likely deepen the tone further and remove the chalky appearance of the unfinished surface.
Not every surface is perfectly uniform, and that rustic, slightly imperfect industrial look is part of the appeal of this approach. The backsplash proved the most difficult area due to its many edges and limited reach. Around the sink was tricky too; we chose not to remove the sink because of aging plumbing and left that for a later phase, so we taped and sanded carefully in those tight spots.
Overall we love how the countertops changed the room. The yellowed surfaces are gone, and the kitchen reads as more solid and contemporary. The project took roughly 15 hours spread across five days, including prep and cleanup, but the material cost was low: approximately $57 for three bags of Ardex plus about $20 for buckets and sandpaper. That works out to about $1.71 per square foot for 45 square feet of countertop—an efficient DIY makeover.
The next step is sealing. Choosing the right sealer matters: the wrong product can yellow, scratch, or even bubble over time. We’ve narrowed contenders down to a couple of high-performance concrete sealers and will report back on which we choose and how it affects color, sheen, and durability. We’ll also share long-term wear updates as the counters are used.
Psst – If you want to know where we sourced items or what paint colors we used in the house, check our shop page via the image below.