We were determined to restore the old, stained clawfoot tub in our beach house bathroom. Hiring a professional for reglazing felt intimidating (and expensive), so we decided to tackle it ourselves. It turned out to be surprisingly doable: the whole project cost about $50 in materials and a good amount of elbow grease. Below I’ll walk through what worked, what didn’t, and how we brought this vintage tub back to life.
Finding an Old Clawfoot Tub
This tub came with the house when we bought it, and it was in rough shape. The bathroom around it was practically collapsing and we had to rebuild an entire side of the house to make things structurally sound. If you’re hunting for a tub, you can often find neglected clawfoot tubs at architectural salvage yards or on resale platforms—buying and moving one costs money, but restoring an old cast-iron tub can be cheaper and more rewarding than buying a brand-new fixture.
We waited to refinish until the bathroom rebuild was mostly complete. When it was time, we focused on cleaning the interior to see if the original glaze was salvageable and preparing the exterior for paint. Here’s exactly what we used and how we did each step.
Materials for Refinishing a Clawfoot Tub
Most restorations require work on both the interior and exterior. The inside is mainly a deep-cleaning job; the outside is typically painted. The inside must be free of holes or deep cracks in the glaze—those can require professional repair. Recommended supplies we used:
- Soft sponge and green scouring pads
- Spray bottle
- Bar Keeper’s Friend or another soft-surface cleanser
- Heavy-duty Magic Erasers
- Fine-grade steel wool (#0)
- Optional tub and tile refinishing kit (DIY epoxy)
- Painter’s multi-tool (optional)
- Gloves
For the exterior we used sanding supplies and paint products designed for metal:
- Coarse, medium and fine grit sanding blocks
- Rust-removing drill attachment and power drill
- Lead-paint test kit
- Dust mask or respirator
- Oil-based clean metal primer (quart)
- Anti-rust oil-based paint (quart) in the color you want
- Small foam rollers and chip brushes
- Paintbrush for oil paints
- Drop cloth or cardboard to protect the floor
Step 1: Assess the Damage
We started by wiping the tub inside and out with a sponge and water to distinguish soap scum and grime from deeper stains like rust. Rust is the scariest issue because it can corrode the glaze and leave pits or holes in the enamel. Much of the surface grime came off easily, which gave us hope that a full professional reglaze might not be necessary.
Some areas had stubborn hard-water and rust stains that would require more intensive cleaning, but uncovering the original finish in many spots was an encouraging sign.
Step 2: Clean the Inside with Vinegar
For lighter stains, we mixed equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle and coated the interior. After a few minutes we scrubbed with a green scouring pad. The vinegar solution lifted a surprising amount of grime and was a great first pass at cleaning the enamel.
It improved things a lot, but the tub still needed deeper treatments to remove persistent rust rings and mineral deposits.
Step 3: Heavy-Duty Scrubbing
We tried Bar Keeper’s Friend first following the product instructions—apply damp, let sit, then scrub—but the marks barely moved. Letting the cleanser sit longer (15–20 minutes) and scrubbing with a heavy-duty Magic Eraser improved results. After that, switching to fine-grade steel wool made the biggest difference. Combined with the cleanser, the steel wool finally removed many of the stubborn rust streaks, though it required patience and elbow grease.
We sometimes used the dulled tip of a multi-tool to lift larger chunks of scale, checking frequently to avoid scratching the glaze. A razor blade or putty knife can work too, but be careful—deep scratches or etching will damage the tub.
The result wasn’t flawless, but the interior looked clean and stable enough to use. Many of the visible rings will be hidden once we install a new drain and faucet.
Here’s a side-by-side of what we achieved with cleaning alone—no reglazing. Finding the original finish intact in many areas gave us confidence to move forward with painting the exterior.
Step 4: Sand the Outside
The outside had flaking paint and rust. We began with coarse sanding blocks to remove loose material, then used a rust-removing drill attachment to speed the process. That attachment removed more loose finish than sanding by hand and saved time. Throughout sanding we wore a proper dust mask or respirator, and we tested the tub for lead paint first—many older tubs contain leaded finishes, which require special precautions.
After power sanding, we smoothed the surface by hand with medium and fine grit sanding blocks until it felt smooth to the touch and had no loose flakes.
Step 5: Prime with Clean Metal Primer
Once wiped down, we applied an oil-based clean metal primer formulated to cover existing rust, prevent future rust, and prepare the surface for paint. Use small foam rollers for large areas and chip brushes to reach under the rim and around the feet. The primer is drippy and odorous—protect your floors and ventilate the room.
Step 6: Paint the Exterior
After the primer cured, we painted the exterior with an oil-based anti-rust enamel. We chose a deep blue to contrast the bathroom tile and used the same small foam rollers plus a dedicated oil-paint brush to get into tight details around the feet. Like the primer, this paint is strong-smelling and thick—work in a ventilated space and use protective gear.
We debated painting the feet a different accent color, but chose a two-tone look: white interior and colored exterior. The surface isn’t perfectly smooth—subtle texture from the original finish shows through—but we liked that character; it feels authentic rather than newly manufactured.
Despite a few dappled spots, the transformation was dramatic. For roughly $50 in paint and supplies plus sweat equity, we ended up with a result that looks far more expensive than it was.
A few weeks later, after the plumber installed new fixtures and we finished the room, the tub looked right at home. Filling it with water made it feel finished and functional—a great payoff for a weekend of work.
If you find an old clawfoot tub, don’t dismiss it. With the right cleaning products, some sandpaper or a drill attachment, primer, and anti-rust paint, you can restore a vintage tub and give it a beautiful second life.
*This post originally included affiliate links; we’ve removed them here. The tips and product types referenced are based on our hands-on experience restoring this tub.*