It’s been a busy, productive week in the nursery built-in department, so this post covers a lot. Crank up your favorite Swedish electropop and get ready for a detailed look at how we turned free‑standing Ikea dressers into built‑in dresser/bookcase bases (the right side in the first image is a Photoshop mockup, not the final result).
We bought two FJELL dressers because their dimensions worked and they’re solid wood, but a few issues needed attention to get a true built‑in look:
- The dresser’s indented side profile prevented it from sitting flush against the wall, leaving a noticeable gap.
- Existing baseboards along the side and back kept the dresser from snugly hugging the walls.
- The bottom drawer sat too close to the floor for us to wrap the baseboard around the piece, so we needed to raise the dresser slightly.
None of these problems were impossible, but they did require careful measuring and some carpentry before moving on to paint and stain. We started with the baseboards, since that’s a common obstacle when turning furniture into built‑ins. The solution: remove the obstructing sections of baseboard. I marked where the dresser sat and remembered that removing the side baseboard would shift the piece slightly, so I adjusted my cut lines accordingly.
I used a Dremel Multimax to cut through the baseboard. A metal radiator cover protected the floor and served as a warning if the blade got too close. After cutting, I scored the seam with a utility knife to avoid peeling paint, then pried off the quarter‑round and baseboard.
With the back and side baseboards removed I pushed the dresser into the corner and discovered the top overhung more than the bottom, preventing a flush fit. The top was removable, so we marked how much needed trimming, removed it, and took care to note which edge to cut.
I trimmed the top on the table saw to the marked measurement; being solid wood made the cut clean and predictable. Once reattached, the dresser sat flush at the back, but a 3/4″ gap remained along the side because of the dresser’s profile. That gap was perfect for a 1×2 scrap, cut to length and snugged into place; I secured it with a couple of nails into the dresser for peace of mind.
To build up the base so the bottom drawer cleared the new baseboard, we built a simple platform from 2x4s to raise each dresser about 3.5 inches. The platform was assembled with Kreg pocket screws and heavy‑duty screws so it was solid. The dresser sat on top of the platform (we left the drawers out for easier handling) and then we anchored the assembly to studs where possible.
Safety and stability were priorities. Using a stud finder, I located solid wood behind the dresser and drove screws through the dresser and platform into studs along the side and back. This made the whole installation rock solid and eliminated tip‑over risk.
That whole process—measuring, cutting, fitting, and installing—took about a day per dresser, especially because we repeated it for both units.
Before continuing with the upper bookcase details, we paused to stain and paint while parts were still off. Staining the top highlighted the wood grain and created a contrast with the painted base. We narrowed our choice to two Minwax stains—Red Mahogany and Dark Walnut—by comparing them on other projects. Dark Walnut matched the bike frames already planned for the room and blended better with the floors, so we chose it.
We applied two coats of stain and two coats of Acrylacq sealer (low‑VOCs) to each top. Including drying time, this stretched over several days.
Because the wood has many dark knots, we worried about bleed‑through after painting. Rather than rely solely on primer, we used two knot‑blocking techniques: a thin layer of wood putty over the knots and a quick coat of wood glue over those areas. The putty required some sanding to smooth, but the glue was fast and left less dust.
We could have used a shellac‑based primer to block knots, but we prefer lower‑fume options in a nursery. We used Kilz Premium (VOC‑free) as primer—tinted leftover from a previous project—and then Benjamin Moore Advance in Senora Gray for the finish coats. The primer went on first, with drawer fronts rolled in the kitchen and bases rolled in place upstairs.
When the first coat of Senora Gray went on it looked paler and more beige than we expected, but it dried to a richer tone that fit our plan. The lighter finish ended up being a benefit: it creates contrast that makes the stained tops and hardware pop, and it helps keep the nursery bright since the room has only one window.
We completed both coats, reassembled the dressers (including the stained tops and original hardware), and began installing some of the molding at the floor. The baseboard and shoe molding will be painted Senora Gray as well after some caulking touch‑ups.
Update: We decided to paint the baseboard and future crown to match the built‑ins rather than leaving them white because we like the continuous, floor‑to‑ceiling tone. With the stained tops already as an accent, a unified color frame felt right.
We’re happy with the results so far. The indentation on the inner edge of each dresser adds a little architectural interest; we like how it looks and plan to keep it, though it could be filled later if we change our minds.
Assuming no delays, we expect to have the built‑ins finished—trimmed to the ceiling and fully painted—within a few days. With that major task nearly complete, we’ll have about ten weeks left to tackle the fun nursery details: bedding, a mobile, art, curtains, a bold green closet door, sconces and a light fixture, and the accent wall between the built‑ins where the crib will go.
More Built-In Storage Projects
We’ve done several built‑in cabinet projects; for more ideas and inspiration, check out these other posts and projects:
- Ikea Besta Hack Into Built-In Cabinets
- Built-In Playroom Storage Using Ikea Cabinets
- Built-In Bookshelves Using Stock Cabinets
- Turning Ikea Dressers Into Bookshelf Bases
- Built-In Dresser Out Of An Ikea Malm
- How to Make Ikea Pax Wardrobes Look Built-In