We love a DIY wall molding as much as the next blogger, but our new favorite is the thick framed trim we added to the bathroom. It almost didn’t happen, and yet it ended up being one of the lower-cost items among many other updates (always satisfying when that happens). We still have finishing touches to complete before the full reveal—like installing a bathroom door—and we’ll share a full budget breakdown in that after post. Many of you wanted details about this specific project, so here’s a clear walkthrough of how we did it.
The good news is that if you’re comfortable with a miter saw and a nail gun, this project is much less complicated than it looks.
Picking a Molding Style
Sherry and I debated adding molding until the last minute. We worried it might be overkill next to the intricate tone-on-tone tile in the shower, and leaving the walls plain would have been simpler and cheaper. Still, we felt a wall treatment would elevate the whole room. Sherry had pinned several inspiring rooms early in the renovation, and those images nudged us toward taking the leap.
We’ve never regretted previous molding or wood wall treatments. They add instant architecture and dimension to any space—especially a plain hallway or boxy room. From past projects we’ve learned you can create a high-impact look without a huge budget: faux shiplap in the duplex, board & batten in our last home’s hallway, a hall upgrade in our current house, and the beach house bedroom treatment were all relatively affordable. That helped convince us this bathroom could be elevated without breaking the bank.
After sorting through inspiration, we landed on a style that reads like recessed panels rather than simple box molding. We liked the substantial thickness of the boards and the cleaner, less busy look—something that gives depth without competing with the tile. With a tight timeline we ultimately winged some decisions, and that constraint actually helped us move quickly and not overthink every cut and joint.
Materials & Supplies
We chose our materials by testing combinations in the store until the arrangement felt right. The primary pieces we used were:
- 8′ primed 1×4 boards for the boxes and chair rail
- 8′ primed 1×6 boards for the baseboard and ceiling trim
- Primed base cap molding to frame the interior of each box
Note: we also bought some 1×3 boards to keep options open, but once held up in the room we preferred the chunkier 1×4 pieces.
Base cap was the secret weapon of this project. It’s commonly used as a cap on baseboards and gives a finished, architectural look when used to frame each box. Because it can be hard to find, buy more than you think you’ll need—trust us, we made multiple trips back to the store.
Other tools and supplies we used:
- Nail gun (or hammer and nails if you prefer a manual method)
- Miter saw (or a manual miter box)
- Spackle or wood filler
- Caulk and a caulk gun
- 48″ level
- Tape measure
- Stud finder
- Spackle knife or painter’s tool
- High-grit sanding block
- Painter’s tape
- Pen or pencil
Using power tools speeds the project and reduces fatigue; the scrap pile shows how much cutting is involved.
Installing the Wall Treatment
We were on a tight deadline before the plumbers arrived, so we don’t have many cutting-and-nailing progress shots—only a single test-hold shot before nailing the first boards in place.
We had tiled the floor the day before, and some mortar was still curing, so we marked walkable tiles with tape to avoid stepping on the wet ones. Renovation life.
The chair rail and vertical slats were 1×4 boards installed with 1.5″ finish nails using our cordless finish nail gun. For horizontal pieces we tried to hit studs where possible, while vertical slats were placed for visual balance rather than stud location. We avoided liquid adhesives to keep the drywall easier to repair in the future. Finish nails plus caulk and paint provide excellent adhesion for normal decor—use wall anchors for anything heavy.
We installed 1×6 boards at the ceiling and floor as crown and baseboard. Each interior box edge was trimmed with base cap pieces, mitered at the corners to create a clean frame.
The installation order that worked best for us was:
- Install baseboard and ceiling trim first so they remain uninterrupted
- Place vertical slats at corners and around door/windows to create large framing boxes
- Install the horizontal chair rail
- Add remaining vertical slats to subdivide boxes as desired
- Trim out each box with the base cap
We didn’t follow that order rigidly throughout, but it minimized seams and cuts. We considered adding ornate crown molding but it looked too busy with our 8′ ceilings, so we stuck with simpler ceiling trim.
Figuring Out the Height & Spacing
Determining box height was a mix of proportion and practical alignment. We aimed to split the room roughly one-third of the way up, which is generally pleasing to the eye. With 8′ ceilings, exactly one-third would be 32″, but we placed the chair rail slightly higher at about 38″ so it would align nicely with the vanity top. That avoided awkward gaps or the vanity interrupting the rail visually.
Spacing the vertical slats wasn’t a matter of equal-sized boxes. Instead we evaluated each wall and the objects that would sit on it. For example, one large box above the vanity contained the mirrors and fixtures cleanly, while over the toilet and other small walls we used narrower boxes. That intentional variety made the room feel balanced and deliberate rather than rigidly symmetrical.
Each wall’s function and fixtures dictated the box layout. Some boxes are larger and some narrower, and we’re very happy with how that variation created a high-end look.
Caulking & Hole Filling
The most tedious part of this project is the caulking and filling. We went through multiple tubes because every joint and gap between pieces needs caulk, and all nail holes should be filled. Proper caulking softens shadows and blends pieces so the whole treatment reads as one seamless surface rather than a collection of boards.
Though time-consuming, careful caulking and filling are what elevate the final result and give the trim a polished, professional look.
Budget Breakdown
Even with a short materials list, costs add up depending on room size (our bathroom is 8′ x 13′, excluding the shower). Buying unprimed boards and priming them yourself saves money, but our deadline made pre-primed boards worth the extra cost.
- 1×6×8′ primed boards (baseboard & ceiling trim): $118
- 1×4×8′ primed boards (chair rail & vertical slats): $139
- Primed base cap: $291
- Door jamb & casing: $88
- Caulk & putty: $12
- Paint: already on hand
- Total: $648
This treatment was pricier than some of our other DIY wall projects—like the $31 faux shiplap backsplash—but the result feels worth the spend. It has become a favorite detail in the room and dramatically improved the space.
Once we finish the bathroom, we’ll share before-and-after photos and a complete renovation budget breakdown. We can’t wait to wrap up this room and show the full reveal.
P.S. If you want to follow the room’s progress, previous posts cover floor planning, tile selections, general bathroom updates, and our closet renovation with budget and tour notes.