Installing drywall doesn’t have to be intimidating — you can do it yourself. I completed our entire laundry room, including the ceiling, in a single day without an extra pair of hands. Below I’ll walk you through the process, the tools and materials I used, and the one tool that made the job much easier.
Drywall Installation Tools & Materials
These are the tools and materials you’ll want on hand. Some items are optional depending on the complexity of your project:
- Drywall sheets — I used 4 × 8′ lightweight sheets
- Drywall lift (we rented one for $40 for 24 hours)
- Electric drill; a drywall screw gun is ideal for speed
- Drywall setting drill bit to countersink screw heads
- Coarse-thread drywall screws (I used 2″ for the ceiling, 1 5/8″ for the walls)
- Measuring tape
- Chalk line
- Utility knife
- Straight edge or metal yardstick
- Drywall saw (keyhole/jab saw)
- Hole saw drill bit (optional, for round holes)
- Pencil or marker
- Step ladder
I picked up my drywall and other supplies using a rental truck. I bought fourteen 4 × 8′ lightweight sheets because they’re easier to handle than standard panels, though they still require support during installation. To make the job doable solo, I rented a drywall lift — it fit in the car and saved my back.
Hanging Drywall on the Ceiling
The drywall lift was the real game-changer. Once a sheet was cut to size, I could place it on the lift and crank it into position. With the lift holding the panel, I had both hands free to drive screws into the ceiling joists without relying on another person.
I used coarse-thread drywall screws and a setting drill bit so each screw head was recessed slightly into the paper. A drywall screw gun would have sped this step up, but a standard drill worked fine. The basic ceiling-hanging process is simple: measure and cut, carry the sheet into place, use the lift to position it, then fasten it securely.
Cutting Drywall Sheets to Size
When a full sheet didn’t fit, I scored and snapped the drywall with a utility knife. Mark the cut with a chalk line, score the front paper along a straight edge, snap the panel along the score, then cut the back paper to separate the pieces cleanly. This method produces straight, accurate cuts with minimal effort.
For obstacles like outlets and vents, use templates, careful measuring, and the right cutter. I used several techniques to make precise openings without overcutting.
Cutting Holes for Vents and Outlet Boxes
On the ceiling, I marked the electrical box location by dabbing spare paint on the box edge, then pressing the sheet against it to transfer a paint mark. That made hole placement exact and I used a hole saw bit to cut the round opening cleanly.
I used the same paint-transfer trick for HVAC vent locations. For non-round openings, the drywall saw works well. When possible, cut from the front to keep the face paper cleaner.
Hanging Drywall on the Walls
The lift also pivots to hold sheets while you fasten them to wall studs. Our room was roughly 8′ deep and 7′ wide, so each wall took two 8′ sheets cut slightly shorter in length. Hanging horizontally across studs is generally recommended: it reduces seams, hides bowing, and creates a stronger surface.
The full process—measuring, cutting, hauling, positioning with the lift, cutting around obstructions, and screwing in—averaged about one board every 45 minutes. For a small room, that pace let me finish the hanging in a day.
Cutting Around the Doorways
To cut around doorways I hung a sheet over the opening, then traced and cut out the portion covering the doorway with a drywall saw. It’s a reliable method and works well for multiple openings. A spiral saw would be faster, but the handheld saw gets the job done accurately.
After installing all 14 sheets (10 in the laundry room, 2 in the hall, and 2 in the storage vestibule) the space took shape quickly. Here’s a before view from the adjacent attic space:
And here’s the room after the drywall was hung — you can still see some exposed framing from the attic side, but the interior is coming together.
The interior drywall installation isn’t flawless — there are a few uneven cuts — but we were proud to complete the hanging ourselves. Many people mention that hanging drywall is easier than mudding and taping, which kept us motivated as we moved on to finishing.
How to Mud & Tape Your Drywall Seams
Mudding and taping is the more challenging and time-consuming part, especially with many corners. We began that work next and learned a few tricks that made the process easier. If you want to tackle taping, mudding, and sanding, follow established techniques: apply tape, use joint compound in multiple coats, feather edges, and sand smoothly between coats for the cleanest finish.
Once mudding, taping, and sanding are complete, you can move on to finishing touches like paint and trim. Below is the finished laundry room as a reference for what the completed project can look like after tile, paint, and trim are added.
