Ever wondered if you could install your own kitchen backsplash? It’s easier and more affordable than many expect. Here’s how we added a classic white subway tile backsplash in my aunt’s kitchen using budget-friendly tile sheets. The project took two half-days to complete and cost roughly $200.

Why Add a Kitchen Backsplash?
When we renovated our first house we skipped a tile backsplash in favor of paint. In hindsight, adding tile would have been an inexpensive way to add lasting style. After completing several tiling projects — including backsplashes in our previous and current kitchens — installing tile has become an obvious choice for both function and aesthetics.

My aunt Liz had black cabinets and gray-and-black granite countertops that would pair beautifully with white subway tile. The photos show the starting point: plain drywall above the counters. One advantage of a kitchen backsplash is that, unlike wet areas, tile can be applied directly over painted drywall when you use the right adhesive and prep the surface properly.

Preparing Your Wall for Tile
On day one we cleared the counters and protected everything with painter’s tape and rosin paper. We removed switch and outlet covers and, with power off, loosened switches and outlets from their boxes. If you have to remove old tile first, remove it before starting these steps.

Because a backsplash is not a constantly wet surface, you can adhere tile directly to painted drywall after scuffing the paint with an abrasive such as 80-grit sandpaper. This helps the adhesive bond better.

Planning Tile Sheet Placement
With the wall prepped, we planned the layout. Instead of standard 3 x 6 subway tiles, we chose smaller 2 x 4 tiles on mesh sheets that better matched the scale of the space. We also bought white bullnose tiles for exposed edges. Laying out full sheets beforehand ensured we wouldn’t end up with narrow slivers at the ends and that the pattern would be centered.

We measured the backsplash area ahead of time and purchased enough tile plus 10–15% extra for cuts, mistakes, and breakage. That overage avoids delays and stress during installation.
Hanging the Subway Tile Sheets
We used a premixed mastic adhesive applied to the wall with a small trowel, working in manageable sections under the cabinets. After spreading a thin layer of mastic, a V-notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle creates grooves that improve adhesion.

Press the tile sheets into the grooves and use 1/8″ spacers to keep grout lines even. The mastic remains workable for several minutes so you can adjust sheets as needed. Work in short runs and step back periodically to check for level and alignment.

Cutting the Tile Sheets
Cutting is the trickiest part. For trimming mesh or glued tile sheets, pruning shears or heavy scissors work well to cut the dots that hold pieces together. For partial tiles that need notches or complex shapes around outlets, a wet saw is the best option. A ceramic tile cutter can handle straight cuts but not notches or irregular shapes.

Mark cuts with a pencil and cut slowly on a wet saw for precision. Don’t stress about perfection around outlets; the outlet cover will conceal most of the edge. An adjustable guide on the saw makes angled cuts easy, which is handy for bullnose edge pieces and other trim cuts.

Installing Ends and Borders
Think about how the backsplash will terminate. If a tile edge meets a side wall, the unfinished edge is hidden and no trim is needed. Where the tile ends on a free edge, we used bullnose pieces cut at a 45-degree angle to provide a finished look. In this kitchen we matched the tile height to the existing granite backsplash so the transition felt deliberate and cohesive.


Grouting and Caulking Your Backsplash
We completed the tile install in roughly five hours, then let the mastic cure overnight. The next morning we removed spacers and began grouting. We used premixed grout in a light gray (Silverado) for subtle contrast. Premixed grout removes the mixing step but can feel stiffer to work with; with practice it’s easy to use.

Work grout into joints with a grout float, applying pressure and moving diagonally across seams so grout fills evenly. Remove excess grout from tile surfaces by holding the float at a sharp angle. After about ten minutes, wipe the tile with a barely damp sponge to remove haze and smooth joints, and repeat once more if needed after the grout firms up.

Finish by caulking seams where the tile meets countertops, cabinets, or walls. We used a caulk color-matched to the grout and taped the edges to get a clean line. Apply a thin bead, smooth it with a wet finger, and remove tape immediately to avoid tearing the bead as it dries.

Completing Your Installation
After grouting and caulking, allow the grout to cure. If a haze forms, buff with a non-shedding cloth once the grout has had a day to set. Some grout or tile types require sealing; ours did not. Once everything is set and cleaned, reinstall outlet covers and enjoy the finished backsplash.

Liz loved the result. We tiled three walls for about $200 total; if you only need one or two walls, your cost will be lower, especially if you choose more affordable tile sheet options. The project refreshed the space and proved how achievable a professional-looking backsplash can be with a little planning.

The project did spark a few more design ideas for Liz’s kitchen — but those can wait for another day. For now, the new backsplash makes the space feel finished and much more intentional.
Other Kitchen Backsplash Tile We’re Loving
If this inspires you to tackle your own backsplash, consider the wide range of tile sheets available. Smaller-scale subway, glossy or matte finishes, and bullnose trims make it easy to achieve different looks without a major budget.

More Tiling Projects and Installation How-Tos
If you want more guidance, we’ve documented other tile projects that show different patterns and techniques, including small-scale herringbone, marble herringbone around a fireplace, porcelain floor tile installations, and penny tile backsplashes. These projects cover layout, cutting, grouting, and troubleshooting so you can build confidence before starting your own.
- Installing a small-scale herringbone in a laundry room
- Marble herringbone around a fireplace
- Porcelain floor tile installation in a laundry room
- Large stone tile outdoors
- Penny tile backsplash installations and related how-tos
- Removing and reinstalling border tiles
- Subway shower surround and marble floor installations
We’ll be doing more tiling at our beach house soon — bathrooms and another backsplash — so expect more tips and photos as we tackle those projects.
This post was originally published in May 2017.