Years ago we promised to share the DIY steps for this shiplap-style, horizontal paneled wall because it’s incredibly simple and very budget-friendly. In our case, the whole treatment cost just $31—less than two light bulbs or a fast-food dinner. The result is an easy-to-clean, durable surface that looks custom without a big investment.
We mentioned in our backsplash post that we chose a different treatment for the stove wall in each duplex kitchen so the space didn’t feel too busy with patterned tile on multiple walls. We wanted something subtle, wipeable, and low-maintenance (you can see both duplex kitchen reveals in our gallery). It was also cheap and easy to install—important because by that point in the renovation we were exhausted from tiling eight rooms, installing two Ikea kitchens, and hanging two wall murals. This paneled wall fit the bill perfectly.
Some call it planking, horizontal paneling, or faux shiplap (real shiplap interlocks), but whatever the name, we’d long admired this look in other designers’ projects. We cut thin sheets of underlayment into narrow planks, nailed them to the wall using small spacers for consistent gaps, and finished with a semi-gloss paint that’s easy to wipe clean. We color-matched the paint to the cabinets so the wall blends in rather than competes with the more prominent tile and chimney details.
Both kitchens were rented throughout the summer and the paneling has held up extremely well—stain-resistant and durable, similar in function to beadboard backsplashes. After heavy use by many renters, it still looks like new.
The cost savings comes from making your own planks instead of buying pre-made shiplap boards sold at big box stores. Those pre-milled boards typically run $5–$6 per 8′ length. By ripping your own boards from 5mm underlayment, you can get the cost down to under $2 per 8′ equivalent. For our two kitchen backsplashes the lumber cost was $22.50 per kitchen instead of $60–$75, saving us roughly $100 across both kitchens.
Cutting your own strips takes a bit more time, but it’s straightforward. If you prefer a faster route and don’t mind spending more, pre-made boards are usually primed and consistent in width. We were inspired by another DIY version using thin sheets and adapted the approach to the available 5mm underlayment, which has a subtle woodgrain that we actually like. It’s proven durable and attractive.
Materials
We already owned most tools and supplies, so the only purchases were wood ($45 total for underlayment) and paint ($17), allowing us to finish two kitchens for about $62. If you need additional tools, they’re good long-term investments for future projects. Note: if you have a gas stove, check local code—some jurisdictions don’t allow wood backsplashes without a protective metal strip above the stove. Our duplexes use electric stoves, so this wasn’t an issue.
What we used:
- 4 x 8′ panels of 5mm underlayment (we used three panels for both kitchens and ripped eight 8′ strips from each)
- Primer (a quart is usually enough)
- Semi-gloss paint (color-matched to the cabinets)
- Wood filler
- Caulk
- Paint brush and small foam rollers
- Small spackle knife
- Nail gun and 1.75″ brad nails
- Table saw (or have strips cut at the store)
- Miter saw or hand saw
- Jigsaw (for outlet and switch cutouts)
- Drill/driver and 1/2″ drill bit
- Sanding block
- Stud finder
- Level and pencil
Cut Your Boards To Size
The underlayment comes in 4 x 8′ sheets. For easier transport we had the store rip each sheet into fourths (about 12″ wide), then ripped them down to final plank width at home on a table saw. Aim for slightly less than 6″ per plank (our strips were 5 7/8″) to account for material lost to the blade—otherwise your last pieces can end up noticeably short. If your store can cut final widths, you may not need a table saw, but you will still need to trim lengths to fit your wall.
After cutting, sand the cut edges lightly with a sanding block to remove splinters and smooth the surface before installation.
Prep Your Wall
Remove outlet covers and switch plates, and locate studs so you can secure the boards properly. We use a magnetic stud finder and mark stud locations with a vertical line using a long level—this gives a clear reference as you work up the wall.
Cut Holes For Outlets & Switches
Hold each plank in place and mark the outlet location. To ensure the outlet and cover plate sit flush on top of the board, loosen the outlet screws so the outlet can rest on the panel edge. Use a scrap piece to confirm vertical placement, transfer the outline to the plank’s back, then cut the opening with a jigsaw. For interior cuts where the blade can’t start on an edge, drill a 1/2″ starter hole in the corners to insert the jigsaw blade.
Nail Your Boards To The Wall
Start at the bottom and work upward, using small spacers between boards to maintain consistent gaps—tile spacers, pennies, or any uniform small object will work. We fastened the boards with 1.75″ brad nails into studs using a cordless nail gun. Adhesive can be added for extra hold, especially in humid environments, but we skipped it to avoid damaging the drywall if we ever wanted to remove the panels. The installation held up perfectly.
Prime, Patch, And Paint
When all boards were installed the raw look was attractive, but we wanted a wipeable finish that blended with the cabinets. Start by priming the panels, brushing into the cracks and then rolling the whole surface with a foam roller. Primer makes nail holes and imperfections more visible so they’re easier to spot and fill. Use wood filler for nail holes and any knots, sand smooth after it dries, then apply a second coat of primer if needed.
Finish with a semi-gloss topcoat. We had the paint color-matched to a scrap panel so the wall would coordinate with the cabinets. After the paint dried we caulked the edges for a clean finish.
We repeated the entire process on the opposite side to finish both kitchens; completing both took a weekend. The result is a simple, affordable upgrade that looks intentional and has held up well through heavy rental use.
This project proved that a straightforward, budget-friendly wall treatment can make a big difference. It’s durable, easy to maintain, and adds subtle texture without competing with other design elements in the kitchen.
If you enjoy affordable DIY projects, check our archives for similar favorites like board and batten, easy landscape lighting, adding crown molding, installing a budget backsplash, and other practical upgrades.
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